tlinn Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 Any good tips for climbing with an extra light partner? I had to set up all my belays for an upward tug to keep her on the ground. Maybe in the alpine a pack would help? It's going to be far more gear intensive to set up all belays this way. Anyone have any good ideas to keep things fast and simple at the belay? Quote
G-spotter Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 feed her lots of twinkies beforehand Quote
Bug Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 I always set up for holding a hard upward jerk regardless of the partner. I was pulled off the ground to the end of my sling by a 160 lb leader and I weighed 190 at the time. Quote
tlinn Posted September 27, 2007 Author Posted September 27, 2007 Twinkies!!! Haha! Maybe if I lose 10 pounds and she gains 10 it would work but I already suggested that and she said she doesn't want to become a heffer! I don't really want that either. Quote
hafilax Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 You could z-clip the first 2 pieces to add friction. Seriously, you basically answered your own question in the OP. An upward piece isn't that time consuming. Most guides encourage it at every anchor. The only other option is to not fall. Quote
G-spotter Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 she said she doesn't want to become a heffer! I don't really want that either. the thicker the cushion the better the pushin' Quote
Bug Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 After that post I'm asking the moderators to dock your post count by 2000 Quote
archenemy Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Let her lead all the pitches. Right answer!!! Quote
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