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[TR] Mt Robson - attempt 8/17-23/2007


Chriznitch

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Trip: grey times on Mt Robson

 

Date: 8/17/2007 thru 8/23/07

 

Trip Report:

I recently took a trip up to British Columbia to attempt Mt Robson. I met my friends Brad (Ontario) and Mark (Colorado) in Calgary, and we drove the awesome roads through Banff and Jasper up to Valemount.

Hoping to maximize our chances, we decided to "cheat" and heli in to the dome to be in place for an attempt on either the Kain Face or the North Face. Unfortunately, we were off schedule with the weather patterns. We ended up flying in at the end of a high pressure zone and then escaped at the beginning of the next one. Although the weather forecast said 30% chance of showers, that translates to whiteout, soggy, & winter conditions on the Dome. In total we spent 5 nights below the Kain Face waiting for the weather, and had plenty of time to think and read. The precip was mainly snowy drizzle with occassional wind gusts. After 3 days of storm we had over a foot of fresh, heavy snow. We actually made an early attempt to descend. We packed up everything, roped up, and began down the upper glacier. Not long after pushing through minimal visibility, Mark dropped into a hidden crevasse up to his waist and we decided to return for another night on the Dome. We actually slept better that night after repacking the snow pads for our tents. Finally, the next morning dawned with some visibility and we descended for good. We traversed the ridge towards Mt Resplendent and then moved down the Robson Glacier from the Resplendent-Robson col. After trying a few other traversing routes we successfully descended the glacier negotiating the lowest point in the cirque. There were a couple thinning snowbridges here but things were passable without too much zigzagging.

After a long day and evening getting to Berg Lake, the next morning dawned clear as the amazing summit teased us in our camp. The views from the rest of the trail out definitely inspired me to mentally obligate a return trip in the future. Incredible area!

 

Lesson learned:

-wait for a "sure thing" high pressure zone before heading in to the upper camp for a summit attempt

 

Pictures:

 

elk driveby near Banff

elk_driveby.jpg

 

view of Robson before the flight in

robson_morning.jpg

 

ready for the flight

co_pilots.jpg

 

getting a look at the summit

heli_approach.jpg

 

flying over the camp on the dome. Thanks to the previous group for the tent spots.

camp_flyby.jpg

 

trading spots with a guided group on the Dome

unloading.jpg

 

farewell to the helicopter

adios.jpg

 

looking over to Mt Resplendent

resplendent_view.jpg

 

early in the storm

cloudy_camp.jpg

 

first rap along the ridge

rap1.jpg

 

Brad descending the ridge

rap1b.jpg

 

downclimbing the ridge, making progress with temporary views

ridgeview.jpg

 

ridge.jpg

 

rap2.jpg

 

lower glacier panorama

robson_glacier_panorama_small.jpg

 

awesome, clear views from camp near Berg Lake

camp_morning_view.jpg

 

this is why I will return

berg_lake_view.jpg

 

beautiful Lake Louise

lake_louise.jpg

 

Columbia icefield snow bus

snow_machine.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Great test of soggyness for my marmot helium eq down sleeping bag. It passed with flying colors.

 

Approach Notes:

according to the BC parks ranger, flying in to the Dome is cheating. She said you must have at least 3000' of gain to claim an ascent.

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