Marble Creek approach

[ericandlucie]

Hi All:

 

Here are some questions for the local experts out there: we are hoping to get into Marble Creek Basin (to climb Early Morning Spire) in a day or two. We have studied what info we have found and are considering the following three approach options:

 

1) Up Eldorado Creek trail, all the way up to the crest of Eldorado Glacier at about 7500ft, then turn left (W) and follow crest of glacier then around and down near the west edge of the glacier to the Triad-Edlorado col. From there, down Triad Glacier, then traverse Marble Creek Cirque NNE to campsites (are there any?) somewhere near the base of the W Ridge of Eldorado, at 5800ft or so.

 

2) Same as 1), except attempt to traverse across what I assume are slabs, below the Eldorado Glacier, at about 6300ft, from the Eldorado Creek trail to the Triad-Eldo col.

 

3) Standard Sibley Creek Pass approach to the col, involving a traverse under the South Side of the Triads.

 

Could anyone knowing these parts make a recommendation? Is Eldorado Glacier heavily crevassed? How about Triad Glacier? Is traversing below Eldorado Glacier at all doable/safe? Is a traverse below the Triads (Sibley Creek option #3) going to be practical this late in the season?

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Eric and Lucie.

[Ziff]

was just there a few days ago with the guys you past on temple's east ridge a few years ago (todd and andrew).

 

I would recommend up eldo creek, across to triad col below the glacier faster than crossing up high and going along glacier, although the eldo glacier is not heavily crevassed up high (we felt no need to rope up).

 

however, having come out via dorado col, I would think that staying at the high camp on eldo, and getting into marble creek via dorado col and then returning to the high camp on eldo after the climb would be faster and easier than camping in marble. having said that, the bivy spot in marble (there is at least one near the moraine as you get off the glacier you descend from triad col) is beautiful.

 

all depends on your preferences. either one will be great.

 

hope this helps.

[ericandlucie]

Thanks for the info.

 

What did you guys climb up there?

[dbb]

I tend to prefer going around the back side of Eldorado (on the inspiration glacier) to access marble creek. I would go over the triad-eldo col only if I was headed to the West Arete of Eldorado or something on the triad. The triad-eldo col is 5th class to cross over, and traversing below the eldorado glacier seems to me to be the best route to get there (you would have to lose elevation if you went high on the glacier). The Rouche creek/Eldorado creek approach is straitforward now-a-days, and traversing over to Dorado needle is really quick from the base of the East Ridge on eldo.

 

[gearheart]

Not as much or by the routes we had hoped to! We got up Eldorado by the E ridge (after a complete circumnavigation of the peak in the course of bailing on the west arete), Forbidden's E Ridge and Sharkfin over a 4 day trip.

Glad to hear that you two are back on the road again - enjoy the trip, it sounds like Part 2 will be just as awesome. I definitely enjoyed hanging out with you guys on Temple and look forward to running into you sometime again. I have a picture of you starting up the Big Step somewhere, maybe I'll try to post it here.

Todd