Route suggestions, last week in August

[tsmart]

I'm taking an Advanced Alpine Mountaineering course from Mountain Madness in August, and after the conclusion of the course I'm going to do some independent climbing with a friend Mon-Thu the last week in August. I'd be interested in route ideas.

 

I took the 13-day intro course from MM last year, and have been leading moderate rock routes (to 5.6-5.7, with sandbagged reputations) at my local crag this year (Devil's Lake, WI).

 

My initial itinerary is as follows, but I have some concerns as noted:

 

Mon: Apply for Boston Basin permit for Tues, and spend the day climbing at Washington Pass; probably Beckey Route on Liberty Bell or North Face of Concord.

 

Tue: Hike nto BB and climb Sharfin. CONCERN - I know some climbers have died from rockfall decending from the notch. I need some beta on how to get to/from the base of Sharkfin safely.

 

Wed: Forbidden West Ridge. CONCERN - Will the 'shrund be too difficult to cross? If I can get across, can I climb the face to the left of the (assumed) melted out gully? Can I decend this face on the return trip? Can I do it with a single rope? Will I need pickets? Screws? Obviiously I have some questions about this route.

 

Thu: Weather day, or more Washington Pass climbing.

 

Other climbs have made my list of possibilities as well, such as Stuart West Ridge (seems pretty straightforward), Prusik Peak (how do you get permits, and what would be my bail-out plan if they aren't available), and climbs in the Wine Spires.

 

I have Beckey's guides, but they don't always give me the information I'm looking for.

 

So...any ideas on my tentative itinerary, or other suggestions?

 

Thanks

[genepires]

since you are getting the permit midweek, there should be no problem getting the permit the day you hike in. that would make your 1st day at wa pass better without waiting for the office to open. i suppose you can self register anyway early.

 

there is another gulley you can use to get above the lower cliff band that is way right of regular approach. expect steep hardpack dirt but seems easier except for the long side hill traverse to get to sharkfin.

 

forbidden- see last tr on this topic

 

w face of sews is good and sounds like within your abilities.

 

enchantment permits are also easier to get midweek. (prussik pk do the w ridge) call the wenatchee ranger station for availability.

 

get better guidebooks like nelson or whitelaw's guidebooks.

[tsmart]

Thanks, that's helpful. I assumed Boston Basin permits would be hard even midweek, so that's why I was planning to pick them up early. Sounds like I don't need to worry about that.