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On the climb Rebel Yell, it seems like the first pitch has a lot of options. When we did this climb last week, our first pitch was stretched out to include a cool overhang move into a very prominent L-facing corner with a fingertip lieback crack in it. This crack/corner went on for quite a bit before a ledge where it became a thrutchy flaring chimney, and eventually a wide crack that you had to grab on above your head, and swing out of the flaring chimney before traversing rightward to the actual route somewhere around p3.

 

Has anyone else ever climbed this variation or know how hard it is? Either way, that's a really good route.

 

The line i am talking about goes up the really prominent left-facing corner to the left of the actual route, in this photo:

 

215789.JPG

 

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Posted

yeah.... that corner in your first picture was soo good! it'd be worth TRing if you climbed up the normal way, cause it is ***** climbing. Someone else must have gotten lost like us.

Posted

That picture doesn't do the chimney justice. :crazy: We linked the corner shown in the picture with the real first pitch (I think), but if you choose to do this and the leader is a 5.10b/c climber I would suggest slpitting it in 2 by belaying at the rap slings below the overhang because the crux comes at the very end of the pitch right when you are getting tired. I didn't split it up, and took some nice falls as a result. Sweet pitch though, the overhang is easier than it looks.

Posted

noway dans-0...crux is getting into that crack...then its just enduro styleeeeee to the top. you just rocked it through the corner and burnt out from leading that first one, either way, nice job stickin with it and gettin that pitch dun dog. im way to drunk to be posting stuff on teh internut now. blahhhh////maybe i will go climboring again someday when im not drinkoring or working or skiingoring.

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