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Bugaboos Gear question


mwarn

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Here's my question, do you need or would you find it preferable to have a 7mm rap line for the descents off of Snowpatch and Bugaboo spires. The guidebook says you need double ropes?? My friend says you can make it work with a single rope-sounds like the making of an epic to me...

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For the bugaboo spire descent, there is no advantage to a second rope--the Kain route has bolted rap stations set up for a single 60m.

 

I have heard from a reputable source that the Snowpatch descent also goes easily with a single 60m rope, but I have not done this myself.

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The descent down Kraus-McCarthy will go with a single rope but is more convenient with two ropes. Personally I would take a tag line so you can push your limit and have the ability to retreat, but if you're just going to climb routes you feel are well within your ability than a single rope should do.

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Aside from descending the spires, if the condition of the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is such that you want to rap it, I would recommend two ropes. It's rigged so that you can do it with one, but it's much faster with two. If you only have one rope, try to team up with another group.

 

Descending the col scares the crap out of me when there's a lot of people coming back through it at the end of the day. The faster you can get out of the line of fire, the better.

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There is a rap descent on the Snowpatch side of the Snowpatch-Pigeon col. I used it about a year ago, I think the bolts were all pretty new at that time. It was about 5 raps, and I'm quite sure it was set up for a single 60m (but it would be nice if someone else could confirm this). This descent was nice for a change in scenery and good if the B-S col looked sketchy for descending. But it was probably a lot longer route to take than the B-S col.

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I've descended the KM on Snowpatch with a 60m rope, and you can just make it from station to station. The stations are equpped with chain anchors so it goes pretty fast. For Bugaboo and Pigeon, there is no use for a second rope (except if for some reason you had to bail off the NR of Bugaboo).

 

Getting off of South Howser would require two ropes.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Rappelling the Kraus-McCarthy on Snowpatch goes easily with a single 60m rope - just did it on August 9. There is at least 3-4' of tails at each station, and each station has a good ledge. Also very clean with very few potential hangups. No advantage to having a second rope when rapping that route, unless somehow one of your ropes hangs up irretrievably, which seems unlikely since you should only have to climb 5.8 to work on any hangup.

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