Anchor on Freeforsome

[kevbone]

Should it go or should it stay? That is the question.

 

I think it should stay the way it is......

[pink]

doesn't bother me. keeps the top ropers closer to the ground. some what of a historical lesson of what not to do.

[kevbone]

I think you need a 70m rope to top rope it from the top chain....I think.....

[pink]

did you say chain?

[kevbone]

I did say chain....I mean anchor.

[pink]

you could always tie two ropes together.

[JosephH]

Henry Barber complained about this anchor long ago when he visited, so folks aren't alone in not liking it. The [only] problem with pulling it from my perspective is folks have long used it for rappelling and still do. Lots of folks change their mind about going up to the Dodd's tree and rap off the little perch and end up at the FFS anchor to complete their rap. Some folks just like going up to the little perch and doing those two raps. It would be a big change for a lot of folks and some would be unpleasantly surprised by such a change if they haven't been for awhile or don't read this forum. I'm pretty neutral on this anchor, but a lot of foks do rap through it.

[kevbone]

JH....that is the reason it is there in the first place. For Rapping. I guess they rapped off and made a crappy anchor then came back later and made it better and it has been there ever since.

[markd]

you can rap off the anchor on ffs with a 60m rope, though it is close. it was my understanding ( according to jim o ) that it's there for the people who rap with a 50m rope - which must be very few these days.

 

i'm not the guy who's going to take it upon myself to remove it; however, i think it shouldn't be there.

 

there is an amazing amount of anchors in less than 200ft right there.

- half way up ffs

- top of ffs

- the perch

- the tree

- big ledge

[kevbone]

you can rap off the anchor of ffs with a 60m rope, though it is close. it was my understanding ( according to jim o ) that it's there for the people who rap with a 50m rope - which must be very few these days.

 

i'm not the guy who's going to take it upon myself to remove it; however, i think it shouldn't be there.

 

there is an amazing amount of anchors in less than 200ft right there.

- half way up ffs

- top of ffs

- the perch

- the tree

- big ledge

 

I dont think there is a bolted anchor under the tree anymore.

[markd]

you can rap off the anchor of ffs with a 60m rope, though it is close. it was my understanding ( according to jim o ) that it's there for the people who rap with a 50m rope - which must be very few these days.

 

i'm not the guy who's going to take it upon myself to remove it; however, i think it shouldn't be there.

 

there is an amazing amount of anchors in less than 200ft right there.

- half way up ffs

- top of ffs

- the perch

- the tree

- big ledge

 

I dont think there is a bolted anchor under the tree anymore.

 

joseph, is this true?

[JosephH]

It's behind the tree, with about 3 inches of webbing and rings sneaking out between a tiny slot between the tree and the wall.

 

 

I think the perch/mid-ffs pair are the problem, rather than just the mid-ffs anchor alone. It's the perch anchor that sets the stage for rapping to the mid-ffs anchor. If you really wanted to solve the problem then I think you'd want to pull the pair of them.

[markd]

It's behind the tree, with about 3 inches of webbing and rings sneaking out between a tiny slot between the tree and the wall.

 

that's what i thought. thanks.

[markd]

I think the perch/mid-ffs pair are the problem, rather than just the mid-ffs anchor alone. It's the perch anchor that sets the stage for rapping to the mid-ffs anchor. If you really wanted to solve the problem then I think you'd want to pull the pair of them.

 

i'm not sure why people do this. you have always been able to rap with a 60m rope from big ledge to top of ffs. then from there to the ground. why would anyone rap to the perch then to the middle off ffs if they're not using 50m ropes?

[kevbone]

If you really wanted to solve the problem then I think you'd want to pull the pair of them.

 

Is there a problem? I was not aware of a problem.

 

JH.....is there bolts behind the tree? Pins?

[kevbone]

I think the perch/mid-ffs pair are the problem, rather than just the mid-ffs anchor alone. It's the perch anchor that sets the stage for rapping to the mid-ffs anchor. If you really wanted to solve the problem then I think you'd want to pull the pair of them.

 

i'm not sure why people do this. you have always been able to rap with a 60m rope from big ledge to top of ffs. then from there to the ground. why would anyone rap to the perch then to the middle off ffs if they're not using 50m ropes?

 

Just one rope will get you down? I thought it was two.

 

I think climbers rap to the "perch" because they just dont know better.

[JosephH]

Mark, people don't rap to the tree or the perch - they bail at those spots. Not everyone is prepared to deal with the off-width/stem section or the Dodd's crux; many, many people bail at both those points or they simply can't get up those stretches of rock and retreat. I'm not sure we want have anchors everywhere folks bail - but on the otherhand I don't think we can assume everyone gets up everything. It's a bit of a dilemma in that regard.

[JosephH]

If you really wanted to solve the problem then I think you'd want to pull the pair of them.

 

Is there a problem? I was not aware of a problem.

 

Only if you are one of the folks who have a problem with the mid-ffs anchor...

 

JH.....is there bolts behind the tree? Pins?

 

One of each.

 

P.S. Gone til this evening...

[kevbone]

Mark, people don't rap to the tree or the perch - they bail at those spots. Not everyone is prepared to deal with the off-width/stem section or the Dodd's crux; many, many people bail at both those points or they simply can't get up those stretches of rock and retreat. I'm not sure we want have anchors everywhere folks bail - but on the otherhand I don't think we can assume everyone gets up everything. It's a bit of a dilemma in that regard.

 

I disagree....it is not a dilemma....if you cant climb it...you leave gear.....like the rest of the climbing community.

[JosephH]

Uhmmm, now I'm confused. You're saying you want the anchors to go or to stay? I'm personally hesitant to pull anchors which have been around a long time and that folks are used to using - particularly on the various mainstay SW and SE routes everyone does. I know a lot of folks just like to go up to the perch on ffa and rap - I do it all the time roped soloing when I'm pressed for time.

[markd]

Uhmmm, now I'm confused. You're saying you want the anchors to go or to stay? I'm personally hesitant to pull anchors which have been around a long time and that folks are used to using - particularly on the various mainstay SW and SE routes everyone does. I know a lot of folks just like to go up to the perch on ffa and rap - I do it all the time roped soloing when I'm pressed for time.

 

i'm not sure why people would do this either? free for all ends at the free for some anchor. then you rappel with one rope.

[kevbone]

Uhmmm, now I'm confused. You're saying you want the anchors to go or to stay? I'm personally hesitant to pull anchors which have been around a long time and that folks are used to using - particularly on the various mainstay SW and SE routes everyone does. I know a lot of folks just like to go up to the perch on ffa and rap - I do it all the time roped soloing when I'm pressed for time.

 

Stay.

[pink]

those anchors have been there for a long time. kevbone, i'm confused why you started this thread. these discussion needs to stay within the circle of locals. if phillip is embarrassed by them he should go do gandolfs the next time he gets the itch to place gear. it was a stupid(troll like) comment. the anchors should stay, no big deal they have been there forever.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 12, 2007 by pink

[kevbone]

those anchors have been there for a long time, the anchors should stay.

 

Agreed......you cant even see them unless you look up! Jeez!!

[Telemack]

I've only been to Beacon a few times, and last visit we climbed ffa; it seemed pretty natural to rap off the mid-anchor and TR ffs. A lot of these mid-stations are plenty useful and well established; do we want to make popular crags into must-climb-to-the-top-or-leave-gear choices?