The White Dyke on Edge Peak - Golden Ears park??

[pazzo]

has anybody here climbed the White Dyke route up Edge Peak in Golden Ears Park? i've read the info on Bivouac, but it's a bit a bit vague. i was curious as to the best approach (from Alder Flats to the base), and a bit of general info on the climb (4th class?) and where the route ends up and best descemt options.

here's some pics of the Dyke? i took from Alder Flats on my way up Golden Ears. ideally i would like to do an enchainment w/ Blanshard, and in the future, all 3 peaks.

thanks

 

Edited July 5, 2007 by pazzo

[G-spotter]

Jmace has done it. There's even a TR somewhere on here.

 

Nice photos.

 

Look out for the gap just south of Edge when doing the traverse.

[pazzo]

i couldn't find any info on here regarding 'the white dyke'??? dru, what gap/ traverse? i imagine when one reaches the top of the white dyke, then continues to the golden ears/ edge col(?) they would have to turn left and continue to the top of the mtn...? is that where the chockstone is located, which is mentioned on Bivouac?

[G-spotter]

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=8&Number=64141&Searchpage=2&Main=4773&Words=Dr.Hook&topic=0&Search=true#Post64141

 

[pazzo]

haha, i guess i didn't go far enough back...

thx

[pazzo]

ok, so i figure it's easy, and a rope is not needed for the descent to panorama ridge...?

[jmace]

Wht happened..just wrote the way in and it dissapeared...ill have to write it again later after lunch

 

arggh

[jmace]

Try this again

 

Ya ive climbed it a couple of times, once going back via golden ears once via edge/blanshard which is in bivouac. Ill describe the approach and the descent via golden ears

 

Head in to the reasonably dry creek bed at alder flats and continue up it until you want to go left and the creek continues straight on. Heading out of the creek on a now steeper bank move into the bush, you may be able to link small scree patches to minimize the bush but there will be times you have to use a little force to continue onwards. Fill your water up at the creek as this is the last place.

 

Just angle yourslef towards the snow below the route..its nice when the snow reaches the rock so you can avoid ascending dangerous mud to the base. The first little bit on the route is the hardest climbing in the upper class 4 range then it angles off and you just meander up the slabs until it stops, here you can head to edge.

 

IF you want go home via Golden Ears then walk back down the slabs heading skiers left until you reach a patch of trees atop of a small wet mossy gulley, down climbing would be doable but rapping is easier..you could avoid rapping by continuing further down unitl you could reach the scree gulley you are trying to rap into from above.

 

rap form trees, possible slings, once off the rap head skiers left immediately and go up and over a small rock "ridge" and then head towards Golden Ears and the scree field, traverse this to the hut and the trail home.

 

Good Luck, its one of my favourite time in the hills!!

[pazzo]

awesome, thx for the reply!!