[TR] Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth - Outer Space 6/3/2007

[devinejohnny]

Trip: Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth - Outer Space

 

Date: 6/3/2007

 

Trip Report:

Well aware of the crowds that the nice weather would cause, we decided to head out to SCW, mainly because Jay had yet to get on the classic Outer Space.

 

The route is just right of center on the left half of this wall. The white streak on the head wall is the classic two pitches of hand crack.

 

We spent Saturday night at the bivouac site as were graced with the company of Fred Becky. He made a grand entrance when he and his partner got their Subaru stuck on a large rock. It looked like a Mentos commercial with every able hand helping to lift the car up and off the boulder. We ran in to Fred the next day on our way back from SCW as he and his partners were heading up, gear hanging off their packs. What a stud. Keep on trucking.

 

I would much rather sacrifice some sleep than spend the day waiting for other parties to complete a climb, so we woke up at 4:30. This gave us a nice cushion on the route. By the time I brought Jay up to the first belay, there were three other parties gearing up at the base, 7 people in total. As I left Library Ledge to follow the last pitch, only one party had passed the crux pitch. I was thankful we were not at the back of that line up.

 

The goats are as curious as every about your salty, sweat soaked gear. We were able to hang out packs in a bush right at the base, though I imagine the goats could have gotten at them if they really wanted to.

 

We did the "normal" start (versus the more direct starts, like RPM, which I did my first time on the route and would recommend). I had a little trouble finding the first set of anchors. I climbed above them, then had to climb back down. In retrospect I would recommend just simulclimbing straight to the large ledge.

 

Here I bring jay up to the first belay.

 

Jay “leads” off to the big ledge, placing no pro.

 

Jay on the big ledge, before the crux pitch.

 

The pitch off the large ledge is great, protects really well, and usually has some bail gear if you're first up the route. Both times I've done the route, I've found a loose hex or nut just before starting into the traverse.

 

This is above the crux pitch, before setting off into a sea of chicken heads to the pedistal.

 

That pitch ends at the pedistal, where Jay belayed.

 

I had the pleasure of leading the next pitch, by far one of my all time favorites.

Does it get any better than this?

 

Topped out in good time and jogged to the ridge crest.

 

The descent was well marked with cairns and a foot path.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard rack with some extras in the #1-2 camelots for the crack pitches.

 

Approach Notes:

Clear sailing, couple of downed trees.

[gt5816v]

Nice! I've been rained off that wall every single time I've tried OS!

[Weekend_Climberz]

Fred's threatened to paint his SO's name on that rock. Nice pics :tup:

[catbirdseat]

I wouldn't hurt to build a cairn on top of it, or else paint it yellow.