Boston Basin- not quite a TR

[fredrogers]

Quick post with an update on conditions in Boston Basin. We went in yesterday to have a go at the West Ridge of Forbidden and got shut down by overcast, drizzle and then heavy rain this AM.

 

Trail is a bit overgrown to start with some lovely uphill schwaking until you break out into the first major avvy path. We hit snow right around 5,000 feet and were on snow until low camp. Composting toilets are still buried, so use dem blue bags.

 

We didn't get a close-up view of the approach gully to the West Ridge (since the weather had moved in by the time we got close and turned around), but from camp it appeared there is no bergschrund at this point, but the approach goes climbers left towards Torment and then back to the gully under some serious hanging cornices that have laid down a lot of large debris. We heard from another party on their way out that there is snow on the first third of the route and with temps what they were it was very sketchy.

 

One of our party had been there for a few days and had goten pretty far up the Quien Sabe on Sahale before turning around in a whiteout. He said the route is mostly straightforward and not broken up yet.

 

Approach to Sharkfin Tower looks good at this point as well.

 

Needless to say with warm temps and rain, shit is coming down everywhere up there right now. J-Berg was very active with some huge snow and raock falls, as were the cliffs on Forbidden under the E. Ridge approach gulley.

 

We ran into a Ranger at high camp and then again on the road. The one at high camp would have checked our permits had he not been there when they issued them that morning and we got checked on the way out (very nicely, I might add, and by the cutest female ranger I have ever met).

 

Road is gated at Eldorado (MP 19) some significant washouts on the way to the standard Boston Basin TH. The rangers told us that work is underweigh to fix the road but it will most lkely be mid/late July before that happens- so until then enjoy the walk.