Great (but older) Leuthold Couloir TR

[JohnGo]

Folks,

 

Here's a link to some superb photos and a route description of Leuthold. It's from 2002, but the route beta is of course the

same. I am posting this because so many people seem to get into trouble on this route. (It's not my site and I do not know Matthew.)

 

Especially nice is the

annotated photo of the route

 

If you have a good look at this route photo, getting lost will be pretty hard to do.

 

Note:

1 - You need to drop about 200 feet from Ill. Saddle and traverse almost to Yocom Ridge before heading up right.

2 - At the arrow marked "Leuthold Couloir", you need to bear a bit to the left to get into the correct gully. If you head straight up or off to the right, you'll get into steeper terrain on the upper Reid Headwall.

 

Leuthold is a great route, and a nice next step from the south side for aspiring climbers. Check out this TR and climb safe.

[letsroll]

Mabe they should put this pic in the climbers area at timberline. Thanks for the link, maybe we will not have problems in the future.

[billbob]

JG-Please try again your post, don't see the referenced route description or photos, only the one link for annotated photo...

Thanks!

[Ptown_Climber1]

http://www.matthewweaver.com/mountaineering/mthood0302.html

 

That IS a pretty good description...I've referred to it in the past.

 

If weather is good, and you know the features of the land, it's pretty hard to get lost on this route.......that is, of course, if you aren't trying to climb it in white-out conditions...I've turned around at the saddle before when it was just socked in by cloud cover...but I'm a little conservative around that sort of thing....

[sean_beanntan]

Just climbed the Luetholds on Wednesday and its in great condition. No big runnels. Some breakable crust getting to the hourglass but styroform after that. Exits on the right in fun condition. Enjoy.

 

ps the big mistake that people make is in low vis. There is a cleaver on the reid that in a white out looks like its part of Yokum....I know hard to believe in clear skies. When climbes reach it, they immediately turn right and head up onto the reid. You need to drop around the toe or climb through the ramp in the middle. I will post a pic if someone needs one...sometime

[BC44cesar]

Hmmmm....it does seem obvious in the clear. Even in a whiteout a compass bearing should indicate the right couloir. Oh well, I guess everybody likes to ignore this guy:

[JohnGo]

Whoops!

Here's the link to the actual trip report

 

The annotated photo is the really nice thing, but I did not deliver before. Sorry.

 

Be Well,

johngo