Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Mount Baring - West Ridge - South Slope 4/7/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mount Baring - West Ridge - South Slope


Date: 4/7/2007


Trip Report:

I needed to get out in to the alpine, but I also needed to get broken in before doing something more difficult. I hadn't been up Mount Baring (Baring Mountain) and had heard wonderful things about its North Face. Well, maybe by wonderful I really mean terrifying. I would get broken by a route over there. So, instead I headed over for the standard scramblish route running up the West Ridge and onto the South Slope. You can read a full on TR at




Here is a shorter, less long winded one.


Mount Baring's north face is a little scary. Things there are of the grade V, 5.10 variety. I should probably get a wee bit stronger before I try a route there.




From the Barclay Creek trailhead, an old road grade (not the trail!) leads about 300 meters to a large cairn that mark the start of the climbing route. Er, rather the bushwhack. There is something of a trail, and occasionally you get some flagging tape, but mostly just head up slope via the easiest route you can find. As no route is especially appealing, don't agonize over it, just go. From the top of the ridge (about 4000 ft, 1800 feet above the trailhead), you'll have about a mile of pleasant, mostly flat walking.




Dip to the south and continue your traverse along the flanks of the mountain. There is hard, icy snow here in the forest and you'll want crampons and an axe. Climbing up to a notch at about 4800 feet where you can see the rest of the route.




Cross the basin and head up the obvious snow gully. The main peak is to the left. The snow was in good condition and the steep gully was no problem. Without snow, I don't think this would have been very much fun. This is a view down the gully to some other people in our group coming up. The gully steepens to around 35-40 near the top, but the snow was in great condition and going up was like climbing a ladder.




From the notch you get some excellent views off toward Mounts Hinman, Daniel, and Stuart (L->R, Hinman is the snowy, ridge like thing on the far right).




From the notch, make a left and climb steep (but super good) snow toward the summit. Traverse to the left after the initial climb, through some trees, to reach the summit block. Beware that there are some cornices hanging over the north face. If you venure out onto one and it breaks, you'll fall for a couple thousand feet before you deck. Here is Steve chilling on top.




The descent follows the same route, but dropping off of the West Ridge is really rather unpleasant. Steep and brushy, we had to use a lot of roots and rocks to make our way down. Be careful and take your time.



Gear Notes:

Bring a helmet as rock fall is fairly common lower down in the brush. An ice axe and crampons are fairly mandatory at this time of the year, but you only really need the crampons along the traverse from the West Ridge up and onto the notch at 4800 feet.


Approach Notes:

Take US2 to Baring and make a left on a FS road marked for Barclay Creek. Drive to the end of it and start up the old road grade. About 5 hours to summit, about 4 down. About 4000 feet of gain. Excellent early season or winter climb. It would pretty much suck in the summer.

Edited by suge

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

very nice - that's a solid day. a friend and i nicknamed baring "mt bitch" after getting foiled by crappy weather the past 2 years.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah, that is the longer winded trip report that I also put up.


Nice TR and photos. Nice meeting you guys on top and sharing a nice summit.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this