[TR] Red Rock Vous - Sunflower Route 3/28/2007

[high_on_rock]

Trip: Red Rock Vous - Sunflower Route

 

Date: 3/28/2007

 

Trip Report:

After the RRR-vous, which was a highlight event of my year thus far, I ended up spending the following few days climbing with my buddy and half-a-herd of sweet young 20-something ladies; a tough life for an old bull. During the days, we endured some unexpected cold temps, snow, wind, and a lot of smiles. I also had the opportunity to meet cc poster “Sherri,” who now has my vote for most beautiful lady on the site.

 

On Wednesday I took off with a nice young lady met at the RRR and headed for the solar slab. We got up late because of extremely cold temps. Amy is fairly new to the sport, but smiled like a pro. Amy is in the beginning stages of her first “dirtbag” road trip, hopefully the first of many.

 

 

We headed up the solar slab gully passing one group. Caught up with two groups at the top of the first pitch out of the gully (p-6) and decided to skip the lineup and headed to the right up the “sunflower route.”

 

This basically being Amy’s first real multi-pitch, no guidebook, I was pretty impressed at how calmly she came along. I led the first two pitches (5.8 I believe) knowing that a 5.9 bolted pitch was next. I saw a bolt, and no anchors, so used that bolt as the top anchor of the anchor system I set up. It wasn’t until I was belaying Amy behind that I stood up tall enough from the rock to see that I stopped about 10-15 feet short of a three-bolt anchor. When Amy got to me, I asked her if she felt comfortable continuing on past and setting up anchors where the anchors were to be. I was astonished by her willingness to basically lead a few bolts of 5.8 – 5.9, 1100 feet off the deck, when she was basically still in the very beginning stages of learning to lead. She smiled, said OK, and took off. It was a nice lesson for her to lead up and get to set up anchors, set up and belay me up; having me merely 20 feet away to talk her through the systems. I was impressed and proud.

 

 

I took off up the next pitch, a 5.9 bolted face spanning the gap between the bottom crack running out and an upper crack beginning. I got into climbing 10 years ago to get over my extreme fear of heights, but the nerves are still there. Being a fat old man, 5.9 is not far from my top abilities. The first bolt I came to was a tiny piece of rust on a ¼ inch bolt. Uff da. Over the weekend I saw a pile of garbage that had been taken out of the rock and replaced by the access fund, and had fresh in my head how weak some of the rusted bolts had been.. Climbing onward, I discovered that someone has basically replaced every-other bolt with a newer one, thereby granting a little confidence. It felt nice subduing the fear and proceeding with what appeared to Amy to be the easy confidence of an experienced climber. It was a Zen victory when I got back to the crack and the difficulty eased up somewhat. A couple more pitches of somewhat easier climbing and we topped out.

 

 

According to my altimeter, Amy had climbed 1400 feet vertical to begin her multi-pitch career.

 

 

We headed over to the top of the solar slab route to rap. As we arrived, two gentlemen were topping out, and the four of us joined together for a quick rappel. I often join others in the back country, but rarely with such an ease of teamwork. We hung ropes, rapped, while others were pulling or throwing the other ropes, and continued down in what seemed like a highly-practiced routine of a highly-trained team. We left the top of the solar slab at the same time a group of three were leaving the top of the gully to head down, and we caught them two pitches before they finished. It was teamwork at it’s finest.

 

We started at 11a.m., and got off the rock at about 6:15 p.m., and felt great after a day of sweet climbing. Since I adhere to the adage that the best climbs are the ones upon which you have the most fun, I have to rate our adventure as tremendous. Thanks Amy for a beautiful climb.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Will take pretty much whatever you bring. Love those hexes.

 

Approach Notes:

Solar Slab Approach, Oak Creek Canyon.

[Sherri]

... I also had the opportunity to meet cc poster “Sherri,” who now has my vote for most beautiful lady on the site....

 

 

Now aren't you just the sweetest thing I almost ever married. (It's true, the desert does bring out my inner beauty, but that glow could have been from the cactus I had just fallen into on my run. )

 

Thanks for the terrific trip report. It's heartwarming to read about your pride over Amy's brave foray into multipitch lead climbing and the way you share your enthusiasm for climbing with those who look up to you. We should all be so lucky to have that kind of inspiration.

 

Glad you all had a great time!

 

 

 

 

[Jason_Martin]

Great TR!

 

One minor correction to your post...the organization at the RRR was the American Safe Climbing Association. They've been doing a tremendous amount of work replacing old sketchy bolts all over the west. If anybody is looking for another place to donate a little money for a good cause, check them out at:

 

http://www.safeclimbing.org/

 

Jason

[high_on_rock]

Thanks for the correction buddy.

[pindude]

Great TR, E! Glad y'all had a great time.

[alpinerack]

Thanx for all the help getting down Solar Slab Eric! It was great meeting you and Amy. Here are a couple of pictures I was able to shoot of you guys.

Eric climbing the 1st pitch of Solar Slab.

 

Amy leading higher up on Sunflower.

 

 

[high_on_rock]

Thank you Alpinerack, I will get them to Amy. Nice rapping with you.

E

[catbirdseat]

There is shadow under this red rock,

(Come in under the shadow of this red rock),

And I will show you something different from either

Your shadow at morning striding behind you

Or your shadow at evening rising to meet you;

I will show you fear in a handful of dust.

 

[spotly]

Nice job Eric and nice pics. We'll have to try again early next year - still wanna do that route.