Found: "anchor" at Granite Point

[kurthicks]

I did a public service and took down an "anchor" from the Metolius Ladder down at Granite Point today. You can have it back so long as you won't use unrated Taiwanese snaplinks as components in your anchors in the future. Not that a lot of people are capable of sending that route (5.12), but the gear could have easily been picked up by a newbie and considered to be an acceptable system to use, which it is definately not. The only thing that this "anchor" may have had going for it was use of the sliding/magic X, but given that if one snaplink failed the shockload would surely blow the other one, why even bother with the X?

 

 

[catbirdseat]

How strong are those snap links? Why not use a Quick Link? They are way cheap.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Those look like hardware store snaps. Rated to just a couple hundred #s IIRC. Scary!

[catbirdseat]

They are great for storing your hard top in the garage ceiling and that's about it.

[kurthicks]

the only wording on them is "Taiwan."

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I was looking at the same things at home depot for my umbilicals. Like these http://www.hobbytool.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=360

 

100lbs-340lbs

 

I think the weak point is that miniscule pin.

[catbirdseat]

They'd be superb for your umbilicals.

Edited March 29, 2007 by catbirdseat

[TrogdortheBurninator]

except that key chain biners are a lot lighter and cheaper

[NYC007]

any some of the keychain biners like the omegas are rated to 600lbs,,

[kurthicks]

owner found. it's being used as a lowering anchor for a hard redpoint attempt. now i just have to see him send the 5.13c!