PMI Fusion Half Ropes

[highclimb]

i was fliping through my gear guide and stumbled apon the PMI Fusion. now this rope is 8.6mm, can hold 17 UIAA falls of 5.9kN, and only weighs 48 grams per meter. now is this a dream rope? does anyone out there have a set of these? Can anyone out there say anything good about these ropes? anything bad? is there a better half rope out there?

thanks,

Aidan

[AJ]

I don't own the PMI Fusion 1/2 rope system, but I did do some checking on the numbers. I don't understand how their ropes rate so much higher that everyone else's 1/2 ropes. However, remember how they said they did their testing. The UIAA test for a 1/2 rope tests a single strand with a 55 kg (about 120 lb.) mass. However, the UIAA test for a single rope uses an 80 kg (about 180 lb.) mass. Both use a fall factor of 1.71 and test the rope in consecutive drops until failure occurs. All that said - 17 falls is still more than the competition is reporting, but it isn't going to sway me much.

For what it is worth - the BlueWater 8.6 mm Excellence is reported at 47.7 g/m, with an impact force of 6.3 kN (using a single 55 kg mass) and is fall rated at "9-9-9" (not sure what BlueWater is trying to convey here). Oh, the BlueWater is a little less stretchy - only 7.6% static elongation vs. 9% for PMI. The PMI has less sheath slippage - 0mm vs. 4mm for the BlueWater. Sterling's 8.8mm half rope system is slightly heavier and has performance numbers slightly in between the BlueWater and PMI.

I've had friends who owned PMI ropes and liked them. They seem to make a good product. If you really want doubles I'm sure you will be happy with their system.

[highclimb]

thanks for the info

Aidan

[tbrent]

I've been climbing on a pair of PMI 8.1's for the last two years. 40.9 g/m, but what I like teh most about these ropes is that you can use them as twins or half ropes. PMI, in the past, has always been against making a twin rope becuase of the high impact forces. Take the Blue Water Ice Floss for example. The impact force is 10KN. That's higher than the UIAA's minimum open gate strength for carabiners! PMI has had their 8.1mm in their line for a while but they only sold it as a half rope. Then they decided to test it as a twin and see the results. The inpact force was only 8.4KN. That's less than their 10.5mm. What this means is that you can clip the rope any way you want, both in the same piece or one rope per piece if using them like half ropes. If the route wanders, alternate your clips. If you get scared, clip them both. No reason to carry a single any more, unless you want somthing burly or you're going to TR.

T-

 

 

 

[highclimb]

tbrent,

are they durable i knwo you have had them for two years.....what kind of stuff do you do with them?

Aidan

[tbrent]

I've used them mainly for ice climbing. I would guess 30-40 days. I'll probably use them only for glacier travel after this season. A pair of these weighs about the same as one 10.5mm x 60m. Something to think about if you normally carry one single rope plus a skinny line for double rope rappels.

[highclimb]

thats awsome. thanks for the info

Aidan