Mt. Baker info

[rswierkos]

My climbing partner and I are avid summer climbers looking to gain experience on early season climbs (and eventually winter). We'd like to climb one of the volcanoes the last week of March and were looking at the Easton Glacier on Baker as a possibility due to it's moderate grade. Looking for any beta on this route this time of year...are snowshoes/skis a must? Is this route avalanche prone in early spring? Any other recommended climbs to cut our teeth on? Thanks!

[dmuja]

Ive done the CD in April, maybe this year too, bring snow shoes. Not familiar w/Easton route. As for avy hazards, if the terrain is 30+ degrees then the weather and snow pack have to be in your favor. If they are, then its a go. Skins are prolly even better than snow shoes but then I don't ski.

[genepires]

Been on it in late march once and it was really nice. We had a prolonged good weather window which doesn't happen often that time of year. But keep your eye on the forcasts and it will happen.

 

You will have to contend and accept the snow mobilers. That is their playground in the winter and early spring and they are a fairly freindly group is you don't cop an attitude. (maybe even hitch a ride?) They make nice packed track to walk on. Get out of the track when they come buy. The machines tend to not go above the high camps. You could make your camp higher on the glacier (6000 ft or so) to keep out of their way. If you camp lower on the railroad grade area, pick a highly visible spot or a spot tucked in the trees deep where a machine couldn't run over you. Just use common sense and think that some of these guys will be enjoying brews. Yeah, the exhaust smells but that will encourage you to get up higher quicker.

 

The summer trail will be buried so you can try to find it. I have just followed the machine tracks till you get to the glacier and then find a way to the top of the moraine on the climbers left. Alternatively, you could stay on the moraine on the climbers right. Seems like there are less machines over there.

 

You will have to walk an additional 4 miles (give or take a mile) to get to the trailhead.

 

Yes to some kind of flotation. probably use them the whole way till the roman wall. If you need them on the wall, descend instead. you don't want to be on that in those conditions.

 

Bringing wands AND use a gps marking waypoints. If the weather turns, your snowshoe track will fill in within an hour. It is real easy to get lost over there and end up in the deming glacier. (a place you don't want to be) Getting lost is probably your biggest hazard.

 

Be ready for avi's. typical problems but not really that bad as most of the terrain is 20 degree or less. (except the roman wall)

 

creavasses should be mostly well covered and not so much an issue. Normal precautions.

 

I have been on baker lots and that march trip was definately the best. Surreal being up there, all pristine and clean and very very empty midweek. (most machines are weekend types) Just remember to have an accepting attitude to the machiners or else you will just make yourself mad.

 

 

[genepires]

sulphide glacier on shuksan is another possibility too. There is one steep suspect slope (avi) once you get past the saddle. But once past that, it should be ok till you get to the summit pryamid which will be steep and maybe too much for you. (don't know you) You may be fine, maybe not, your call. Either way it is fun.

[PeterC]

Recent conditions on Coleman-Deming:

 

http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=6354.new#new

[Alasdair]

sulphide glacier on shuksan is another possibility too. There is one steep suspect slope (avi) once you get past the saddle. But once past that, it should be ok till you get to the summit pryamid which will be steep and maybe too much for you. (don't know you) You may be fine, maybe not, your call. Either way it is fun.

 

Might want to take a look at the road conditions first. The baker lake road is washed out at chadwick creek and will not be fixed for quite a while. It is close to shannon creek campground. I think this means you won't be doing shucksan.