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Local Input Needed: Cascade/Joffre Cond in May


SnowJunkie

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I'm planning a trip out to the PNW and BC in May and I just wanted some input from some of the locals concerning snow pack and conditions. Now I understand that alot can happen in 3 months but I'm asking for historic information (averages). We are planning on doing Liberty Ridge but are building a list of alternate peaks so that the weather doesn't kill our plans. I've been eyeing Joffre and some of the peaks in the Whistler area (James Turner Peak) as well as Shuksan and the Torment traverse and wanted to know if they are reasonable in May. What is the snowpack normally like (what is it like now when compared to past years)? How will the glaciers in the area be at that time of the year? Will the crevasses be covered or exposed? What are the avy conditions like? Will it matter if we head out there in early May or late May/early June? I'd like to be able to climb as many peaks as possible but I certainly want to try and aim for the time when the conditions historically have been the best (in the early May to early June timeframe). We won't be using skis so keep that in mind as well.

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Late May has better climbing conditions on north faces but early May may have better weather conditions.

 

Near record snowpack. Crevasses will probably require a backhoe to find in May.

 

May usually has pretty stable avvy conditions but watch out for cornice fall.

 

James Turner is pretty remote by American standards, about like the Picket Range. Make sure you know what you are getting into.

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Sorry for the misunderstanding but we will have snowshoes. I'm also aware of the remoteness of James Turner. I'm doing tons of research and reading to fully prepare so that I know exactly what I'm getting into. It's the main reason I'm posting here and why I'm asking anyone that is more familiar with the area for advice.

 

My climbing partner and I are trying to come up with as thorough a list of peaks to climb as possible so as to have alternates should the weather or conditions prevent us from doing one of our objectives. Please feel free to add any peaks/routes you feel would be good in May that are in the Northern Cascades or British Columbia. Thanks for your help and advice!

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