layton Posted September 22, 2002 Posted September 22, 2002 Our line went up what looks like a face(really a ridge) on the right hand peak. We started to the right and below the treed section and make it a quarter of the way up. Jordop, Necronomicon, and I headed back to our "spot" to climb the modest peak on saturday across from the Back of Beyond Buttress . An easy 1.5 hour approach put us at the base and ready to climb. We wanted to climb the right hand buttress as the left has a disgusting missing sectoin that would be pretty nuts to climb (go do it). We scoped out the base which proved to be challanging to find a direct way up. I wanted to climb up double roofs, what I found to be the "best way". To the right and left were indirect lines up nastier looking rock. Since my partners so eagerly gave me the rope I swallowed as I wondered why they were so eager to pass the 1st pitch to me? I found the 1st pitch to be challanging route finding, although I did not wander much at all. I went up directly through the 1st roof and bypassed the 2nd roof/offwidth/wet chimey on the left after much hesitation. As rope drag and exposure increased, so did yells of "hurry the fuck up I'm freezing". I told them to fuck themselves and freeze. Finally I found a pod to stick two #1 camalots in. Belaying them up on a stance w/a gi-gi really hurt my shoulder and I too began to freeze me ass off as they came up. They were a little pissed I didn't bail when they came up, and once again eagerly gave me the rope (mostly cuz of the way our twin ropes were set up, leading in block was much more time saving-both of them could've led either pitch blindfolded). 10 feet of nice (and only) jamming led to all sorts of crap and exciting rock-climbing including a cool chimney I was sure my partners would enjoy. Finally after most of the rope went out, I belayed on a ledge. Another shoulder burning belay ensued. By the time they were up we were all hypothermic. Jordop was having trouble feeling the rock, while Necro's flu was raging (always fun when sharing a water bladder). So far the rock was nasty, slick, and crackless. "Mossy snot cracks" as Jordop called them, bottomed out seams filled w/moss that only lent to toe smears. Pro was not that bad, but it certainly was poor climbing so far. We scoped and scoped until it came to a decision to bail. I think our hypothermic conditions were to blame, cuz I wanted to go on. NEcro was in fine form lashing out insults against my better judgement, so I gave up too. We rapped and climbed the backside only to find a Dept. of Defence tripod and optic lens on the summit w/a survey marker from 1970. Two drums of helicopter fuel rusted on the summit area. Well maybe we were the 1st ones to actually climb the peak, but none of us really gave a rats ass. However, it was soooo beautiful, making it totaly worth it. We looked down onto the ridge and were thankful we didn't finish the route. Compact rock, no cracks, and small roofs galor could've made it an epic w/o a cause. I'm sure someone better than us will finish the route, it's too obvious. I can give no gear beta except for maybe pins and jackets. Go get it!!!! Jordop, post a picture or two of the "stellar climbing" when you get your film developed. [ 09-22-2002, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: michael_layton ] Quote
Necronomicon Posted September 22, 2002 Posted September 22, 2002 From the summit, our line looked truly killer. Boy, what a shame, since I can't remember when I've last seen rock of such quality, and a line of such elegance. It's of the caliber of the East face of Mirkwood, near Mt. Baker, but more solid. Plenty of fun to be had for better equiped climbers. I'd give it a go this season if I were you, if you've had your eyes on some of the gems in the area...The colouir to the right of the buttress looks killer, too. The newly climbed route to the East ("Back of Beyond") is THE gem though. An awesome line, sure to be a well-renowned classic. I'm glad I didn't have my eye on it, only to have it scooped. It sure would burn inside... [ 09-22-2002, 02:55 PM: Message edited by: Necronomicon ] Quote
jordop Posted September 22, 2002 Posted September 22, 2002 (edited) . Edited June 15, 2021 by jordop Quote
jordop Posted November 1, 2002 Posted November 1, 2002 (edited) . Edited June 15, 2021 by jordop Quote
layton Posted November 2, 2002 Author Posted November 2, 2002 Got an advanced teleplay of the next episode of "Will & Grace" did ya Jordan? Does the gang go shopping later? Or was that the alternate ending to the episode when Webster burns the house down(that cute little bastard!) Send that to Jason Martin, he's a playwright as well as a guidebook author. Maybe it can go broadway. Quote
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