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TimL

Nightmare Rock & Sheriffs Badge

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Left Saturday morning and got to the Murrin Park parking lot by 10am. Rafael H and I wanted to warm up before we headed over to Nightmare Rock, the so-called heavy hitter crag of Squamish. We roped up for a 5.10a on Bog Wall then soloed a 5.7 OW and 5.9 a couples times. Then went to Exodus wall and soloed a couple 5.4's and a 5.7. After that I felt warmed up enough to onsight a 100 ft 5.11a crack called Perspective. Next, climbed Sentry Box 5.12a crack in 1 fall. I was bummed I fell but I started off on the route pretty gripped after watching a couple of guys take wingers then aid up through the crux. The short version of this route is 5.10a and is magnificent on its own. Also, the bolted flake below Granddaddy overhang looks really easy but is hard 5.11a. I think the route name is Barn Door.

Even though the Mclane guide say most routes are between 35 and 40 meters, we found a single 60m is enough to lower off most climbs. Maybe Mclane was measuring from the road?

 

Sunday we were woken up by the camp ground host nazi pounding on our window asking for payment. After paying the man and a quick trip to Starbucks we headed over to the Sheriffs Badge and ran up the first 2 pitches of Borderline (5.10b & 5.9). Rafael climbed the 1st 5.7 pitch of the Daily Planet. I then sat under the 2nd pitch for an hour and stared into submission the most amazing, intimidating and challenging pitch I've ever contemplated leading. Daily Planet p2 is rated 5.12a and is the best single pitch I've ever seen in my life. Located in a giant dihedral that splits the left side of the Sheriffs Badge the start of the pitch is immediate 5.11 b/c stemming, palming and thin tip crack climbing past 2 questionable fixed pins for 20 ft. then another 20 ft of the same stuff with nothing but a string of RPs and small nuts. After the first 40 ft I milked a fantastic rest and finally some good gear. The next 40 ft felt like 5.11- laybacking the thin dihedral crack thin to a horrible rest below the crux. For the crux you clip a bolt, double undercling on a flake, left hand up high to a crip undercling, smear your feet up higher on a sloping knob, then rock your right and over to a thin tip crack. From there another good undercling for the left hand on a higher flake leads to a bomber hand jam, pro and in 10 ft. the chains. Truly amazing climb. Unfortunately, I had 4 falls after the first half. Rafael freaked because he said he was nervous and intimidated by just following the pitch. After climbing the first 40 ft. he loudly declared all the pro as crap. I thought it just added flavor to a truly magnificent pitch. After Rafael came down I TR'ed the pitch almost clean with one fall then lowered off and then we headed off to Starbucks for a quick cup of coffee before the long drive home. I figure next time we'll finish the route but I was happy just getting a feel for the 1st couple pitches. Also, I must thank Rafael for his encouragement and positive attitude.

 

Anyone up for the grades and interested in **** crack climbs then both Nightmare Rock and the Sheriffs Badge are 2 of the best places I've climbed in Squamish.

 

This might be a good question for Dru. We weren't able to see the Daily Planet descent anchors that are supposed to be located on the main face below the last pitch after the 5.11a traverse. Has something happened to them or are we just going blind? Also, do you know where I could get a topo for the Fortress of Solitude?

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there is no topo for Fortress you go left at the big roof and then follow your nose. perhaps if you offered beer to dave humphries or something. you can see the scrub streak from hospital hill traffic lights if you look hard enough [big Grin]

 

i have no idea about the rap anchors, i understand they are located fairly low on the face at the top of a short white corner just left of the skullfuck bolt ladder... never been up there myself yet so cant help more than that.

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