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I am thinking of heading to Squamish for my first time tomorrow, we went down to Erie and most things were dry and in great shape. Having never been there, and having at the moment a rack that is pretty limited in size I was wondering if anybody could give me any insight about the gear belays, paticularly in the penny lane area. Are there good cracks for stoppers, or do I need to be saving my cams for when I get to the top? We are looking for cracks in the 5.8 and 5.9 range that get the most sun, is the Penny lane area a good one to go check out? Thanks a lot for any Info

Spencer

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Posted

Penny Lane requires a gear belay, it is one of the few that does. Med to Large stoppers, various sizes of cams all work. There are options. Traverse left 25' on the top slab to the rap chains. 2 raps on a single to the ground. Neat and Cool cliff may have more options in your range, slightly less sunny, more bolted top anchors.

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