G-spotter Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 (edited) Trip: The Lillooet Experience - OJ/Jade Falls/Loose Society Date: 12/27/2006 Trip Report: So Jesse, Steve and I all had time off and we didn't want to drive to the Rockies if we could climb close to home. Save the planet, drive less, climb local. So yeah, Lillooet it is. J+S got here Wed morning, we got in my Subaru, espresso in Hope, bacon in Canyon Alpine, and we still beat TrogdorTheBurninator + girlfriend to OJ. Oregon Jack climbs easier on the right side this year despite Jesse's belief that the left side was go. There's some sort of spooky time vortex around OJ. Bermuda triangle thing. Yes, it ate our day. By the time all three of us had climbed it was almost dark. WTF?? So we got in da car and drove to the truck stop in Cache Creek. Ate some greasy chewandspew. Drove to Lillooet. Got hotel room. Walked to bar. Bar was closed. Ordered pizza for desert. Swilled Jager until passout time. Forgot how to pass out and lay awake until 3 AM. Saturday, alarm went off at 6. Pounded it till it stopped. At 7:30 someone knocked on wrong door. Woke up then. Reynolds. Grease. Cheese. Potatoes. No pregnant waitress. Child labour, though. Drove up the Bridge gaping at ice. Drove back to Jade Falls. Started hiking around 11 AM. Oh yeah, plenty of time. Postholing. Strange time-eating vortex AGAIN, wtf Steve set off slab avalanche in gully on approach. Got spare as neither jmace or myself were bowled over. Got to ice at 2. My lead. J +S insisted I climb direct route. I climbed easy route instead. Crampon fell off. Placed screw. Lowered. Reclimbed and continued to top. J+S climbed hard pillar direct and got huge forearms of pumpitude. Finished at dark. Slogged out. Teh Jade Falls climbination. On return to Lillooet we found jordop and E in next motelroom. Drank soynog and rum, more Jager, etc and walked to pub. This time pub open but kitchen closed. Walked back to Greek place. Inhaled pasta, meatball, kalimari etc. Back to motel room for more Jager. Remembered how to pass out this time. Friday. We got kicked out of motel room to make room for giant powwow that had booked every bed in town. Reynolds, grease, potatoes, ketchup, sausage, . Drove to Rambles. Much in. Lots of snow. Drove back to Loose Lady and/or Society Girls (in case Steve decided he didn't want to lead a 5+). Began slog. Soloed numerous WI2 steps buried under 2-3 feet of snow. Fell through some holes. Got to last pitch before bowl where LL/SG split. Jmace on the lead tunnelling through waist deep layers of crud and snice looking for screwable ice. 8D Decided to bail. Jmace builds Abalakov out of cord jordop left in car weeks ago. Turns out apparent 7mm cord is actually bungy cord. Abalakov stretches alarmingly. J leaves sling instead, raps off. We build test Abalakov, practice bungy jumping until ice blows out. Cord stays intact. Hmmmm? Descent same. Car. Canyon Alpine pie, burgers, steak. Home by 8. Gear Notes: Screws and bungy cord. Nice to have adze! Approach Notes: Subaru, posthole. Edited December 31, 2006 by G-spotter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 Bungee abalokov, that's frickinhilarious. Too much snow out there, every north facing moderate is banked in. That and Rambles made me totally hungover. Second time that has happened - stay away from that thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted December 31, 2006 Share Posted December 31, 2006 I think Steve's gloves may break NHL rules on the size of blockers goalies are allowed to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 Bungee abalokov, that's frickinhilarious. PfTp0CGu_2A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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