viktor Posted June 12, 2001 Share Posted June 12, 2001 I think we originally thought it was 10c, can't remember why we lowered it to 10a but it seems the last I did it (been a few years) 10a seemed right. a friend of mine said he struggled on it recently which he shouldn't have. I don't know, what do you think it's rated? on any given day, I guess it can feel easy or hard. I'd like to hear from someone who's done the potato chip flake. The only guy I know of is Geoff Scherer, I don't recall if he actually finished it or bailed, but I do remember him saying it was really scary. I think Yoder did the first cuz he mentioned the 5.8 corner above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 If its the slabby climb I remember climbing 5 years ago it seemed pretty reasonable. I noticed Hyperhound got harder with time and the access log washing out. A little dirt can grease a shallow scoop although a 3 star climb should get enuf traffic to keep it clean. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_Grove Posted June 13, 2001 Author Share Posted June 13, 2001 I only read the older book after doing the route thinking it was 10a. Both the route and the rating difference surprised me. I thought it was a touch stiffer than Fakin' It at Peshastin (mostly because it had a lot of thin edges). I'd be inclined to call it 10b. But then, I haven't done enough friction 10b-c to say for sure. Judging from the growth of lichen, it's not getting much traffic, maybe because of the 5.8 offwidth approach. Too bad; it deserves all 3 stars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_Grove Posted June 13, 2001 Author Share Posted June 13, 2001 Kramar's original guide to Leavenworth (the one with the white cover) lists the rating for this at 5.10c. The more recent guide lists it at 5.10a. What gives? Typo? Shoes re-soled with fly-paper the second time around? Anyone know? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 The grade got anorexia, just like the route name says, and is wasting away. soon it will be 5.9, then 5.6. medical marijuana is one recommended treatment for anorexia. puff puff. (Ok that was gratutuous spray. Actually I have never done the route. I'm certain Viktor will provide the insight behind the changing grade and also why Potato Chip Flake was downgraded from 3 skulls to 2. Did someone whip off it and live??) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viktor Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 Ah, Hyperhound. Of all the routes I've cleaned those slab routes on Dog Dome are as good as any in the Icicle (for slab routes). Unfortunately, they are also growing back. I think the fire may have upset the ecological balance there or something cuz other climbs stay clean regardless of how much traffic they get. I guess I better quit exploring in my old age and just go back to being a full-time Custodian of the Icicle, kinda like your friendly campground hosts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 13, 2001 Share Posted June 13, 2001 "You boys better turn down that music a bit, my boss is in the Canyon tonight and I wouldn't want you to get in trouble." Puff puff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted June 14, 2001 Share Posted June 14, 2001 Viktor please don't become like our "friendly campground hosts". And keep doin what ter doin cuz you're doin it good. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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