WC Superlight Rocks

[counterfeitfake]

I had been curious about the Wild Country Superlight Rocks for a while so I bought some to try out. I've placed them several times now, and they seem to work just as well as other nuts I've used- the shape is different than others and so you have to place them differently, but in some ways I think a nut is a nut.

 

But. Apparently they way they make these light is by making them less strong (not terribly surprising, I guess). They're rated to 4 or 6 kN, whereas normal "heavy" stoppers are more like 6 or 10 kN. So...

 

Discuss.

Edited December 2, 2006 by counterfeitfake

[Mr_Phil]

Well duh. The Superlight rocks only have a single strand of cable as opposed to the double strand of regular nuts.

[counterfeitfake]

Duh to you, sir. I guess I need to provide more direction.

 

Are these strong enough? Would you use them? Do you use them? Under what circumstances? Etc.

[catbirdseat]

Clearly, they are strong enough for aid climbing, so there is one application. If you are climbing easier alpine routes where the chances of falling are minimal, but you are watching every ounce, then perhaps you would be willing to forego the extra margin of safety that a stronger nut would afford.

 

I don't know, it seems to me that nuts are your lightest protection to begin with, and that it would be the last place I'd try to save weight. The fact that I've never seen anyone carrying these nuts tells me they can't be very popular.

 

But you got 'em. My suggestion is to use standard nuts when the fall factor is high and save your ultralights for when you have more rope out.

[Hendershot]

If you are climbing easier alpine routes where the chances of falling are minimal, but you are watching every ounce, then perhaps you would be willing to forego the extra margin of safety that a stronger nut would afford.

 

I'm with Catbird on this. I tend to climb trad a level or two below what I climb on sport routes so I don't push myself enough to take a fall. I own a set of these superlight rocks and have't take a fall on one yet. We are talking a difference of 900 pounds of force (4kn) vs. 1350 pounds of force (6kn). That won't stop me from using them, besides I don't run out my pro that much either.

[Dechristo]

I'm, also, with CBS on this:

...nuts are your lightest protection to begin with, and that it would be the last place I'd try to save weight.

 

 

But, not on this:

If you are climbing easier alpine routes where the chances of falling are minimal, but you are watching every ounce, then perhaps you would be willing to forego the extra margin of safety that a stronger nut would afford.

...because "easier alpine routes" tend to see pro placed sparingly.