[TR] Rex's Pillar - Joffre Group- Stonecrop Face 1

[blackbeard]

Climb: Rex's Pillar - Joffre Group-Stonecrop Face

 

Date of Climb: 10/21/2006

 

Trip Report:

We left Vancouver pretty late on Friday and arrived at the Joffre Lakes trailhead at about 11:30. We bivi'd by the car, and woke up at 5 the next morning. During the aproach we passed through a few talus fields which were covered in frost. They sparkled in the glow of our L.E.D's and reminded us of bursts of sparkling stars, it was heinously slippery as well.

 

Before long we arrived at the middle lake. Now this was our first time in the area, and we took a wrong turn in the dark and almost walked around the lake. Fortunatley we realized our mistake and were able to not waste much time.

 

As we reached the upper lake the false dawn was approaching, bringing the dark shilouettes of the surrounding peaks out of hiding. What a stunning area. The icefalls of the Matier Icefall standing like gargoyles against the sky.

 

 

We started off up the moraine, following the well packed climbers trail up the steepening slopes towards the granite steps below the glacier. The rock was perfectly shaped for rambling scrambles, we were able to follow a wandering series of ledges up to the toe of the glacier. There was some excellent ice forming lower down in the gulleys.

 

 

The glacier was burned right down to the compact ice, perfectly smooth and glass like. It was very brittle and thick dinner plate size pieces would skitter down the slope as you nailed it with your tool. We'd only each brought 1 axe & crampons, and had 2 screws between us, not much for any roped climbing. So it was off into the icy yonder soloing along beside each other. It was an oxymoron in action.

 

This was probably the upper limits of what we should have been on given the equipment we had between us. Once we reached the heavily crevassed section, we decided to head further out to climbers right and get onto the regular route. A slip here would have had rather dire effects.

 

 

The glacier in this section had still got a fair covering of neve, and was much more comfortable and fast going, and we were able to chew up the distance. We came to the final slope just prior to the summit ridge where the sun was continually beckoning us. Nick took up the lead and with a big grin broke over the horizon line and into the sun. He was kind enough to snap a few pictures of me coming up the final slopes and then it was into the glorious sun for me! It was nice being off of the windy slope.

 

 

 

On our descent we decided to down climb the especially steep section then bum slide all the rest to the rocky steps at the toe of the glacier. The terrain just sped by and we made it back down to the lake in about 1hr 45min. All the way from the summit we could see that we wouldn't be alone. And when we arrived there must have been 30 people at the lake. It felt very strange to descend into such a crowd.

 

Our Route:

 

 

Gear Notes:

1 Axe Each

2 Ice Screws

Crampons

 

Could of had another axe for comfort.

 

Approach Notes:

The thing is a bloody highway. Once at the upper lake, ensure you take the east ridge as there are many crevases and plenty of icefall towards center of the glacier.

Edited October 25, 2006 by blackbeard

[matt_warfield]

"it was an oxymoron in action."

 

This one still has me scratching my head. Thanks for the TR, though!

[BackCountryPunk]

"it was an oxymoron in action."

 

This one still has me scratching my head. Thanks for the TR, though!

 

"We were soloing along beside each other" - That would be the oxymoron.

 

I beleive its dry humour coupled with word play.

[gertlush]

Sweet ....did you guys go up the red line & down the green one? That's a long slide.

[blackbeard]

yea, up the red and down the green.

 

it was a sweet slide.

 

plus we got the beta on the area.