Lamar's Trust

[catbirdseat]

I saw this Dihedral Wall route in an old Index guide book. It is listed as 5.9+, two stars. It is located to the left of Beak Beak Beak. It was mentioned briefly on this site by D. Cramer a couple years ago with no info. I got a report recently that it looked like it hadn't been climbed in years and has "trees growing out of it".

 

Has anyone climbed this recently? Is it good, does it need cleaning. Any information at all would be welcome.

[ScottP]

I did it some time ago (early 90's?) as a consolation after taking nothing but draws on Newest Industry, seriously dogging the crux and then bailing after finding the need for gear way out from the last bolt (I've never trusted a Smoot guide since.)

 

It was somewhat dirty even then.

If you are ticking off Index routes, I'd say it's worthy of a look, but certainly not a destination in itself.

[mattp]

I used to do the route quite regularly, and checking the 1993+ Clint Cummins book I think we were doing the pitch of Ten Percent beyond there, because I remember it being two pitches.

 

Some time maybe five or ten years ago, a tree fell onto the route and made it kind of scary - at least for me. I went back once or twice but didn't like climbing over the dead tree, hanging precariously.

 

I haven't been back.

[catbirdseat]

How big is that tree? Can it be cut out of the way?

[mattp]

It was too big for me to want to mess with it but then on neither occasion did I go up there looking for logging work and carrying proper tools for the job. I don't know how big, but I bet it was at least 10" at the butt end.

 

I think the last time I was up there was probably five years ago, so perhaps it is gone by now or otherwise broken off or something that would make it easier to deal with.