Sol Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 My buddy Bobby and I jumped on the newer route Straight Outta Squampton a couple a weeks ago. For those who don't own McClane's new book, it is to the left of the Squaw on a formation called Klootch buttress. Because the third pitch was a sea of at least 3 fixed ropes we were only able to do the first 2 pitches. They are truly awesome. Steep and positive; the climbing reminded me more of something you would find at Index. I'm posting a few photos in hopes of luring people out there to help clean the route up, there is still a bit of lichen, dirt, and some grit. Hopefully the fixed lines will come down sometime soon, the 3rd pitch looked stellar. Go get it. Pitch 1: Bobby starting Pitch 2, as the guidbook says, "a unique and amazing pitch for Squamish: Deep in the slot: Yeah Bobby, get some: Rapping off, Witness the Steepness: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted October 6, 2006 Share Posted October 6, 2006 That roof looks pretty sweet! Nice work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 Damn right that looks like a nice route. What does it go at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 10, 2006 Author Share Posted October 10, 2006 P1: 10d p2: the roof pitch, a very physical 11a P3: 11b/c P4: 10d Unlike other soft climbs in the area (birds of prey, the great game) the grades felt pretty right on. P2 was all of 11a, much harder than the sword. 3rd pitch started out with a bolt-protected traverse to splitter cracks. The traverse is apparently the crux, and though it appeared quite technical, didn't seem too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeleRoss Posted October 10, 2006 Share Posted October 10, 2006 that looks pretty cool is the approach the same as for the Squaw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 that looks pretty cool is the approach the same as for the Squaw? yep, go left along trail at base of birds of prey past some fixed line projects for about 100m. pitch 1 is easy to spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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