Straight Outta Squampton

[Sol]

My buddy Bobby and I jumped on the newer route Straight Outta Squampton a couple a weeks ago. For those who don't own McClane's new book, it is to the left of the Squaw on a formation called Klootch buttress. Because the third pitch was a sea of at least 3 fixed ropes we were only able to do the first 2 pitches. They are truly awesome. Steep and positive; the climbing reminded me more of something you would find at Index. I'm posting a few photos in hopes of luring people out there to help clean the route up, there is still a bit of lichen, dirt, and some grit. Hopefully the fixed lines will come down sometime soon, the 3rd pitch looked stellar. Go get it.

 

Pitch 1:

 

 

Bobby starting Pitch 2, as the guidbook says, "a unique and amazing pitch for Squamish:

 

 

Deep in the slot:

 

 

Yeah Bobby, get some:

 

 

Rapping off, Witness the Steepness:

 

[mountainmatt]

That roof looks pretty sweet! Nice work

[ken4ord]

Damn right that looks like a nice route. What does it go at?

[Sol]

P1: 10d

p2: the roof pitch, a very physical 11a

P3: 11b/c

P4: 10d

 

Unlike other soft climbs in the area (birds of prey, the great game) the grades felt pretty right on. P2 was all of 11a, much harder than the sword. 3rd pitch started out with a bolt-protected traverse to splitter cracks. The traverse is apparently the crux, and though it appeared quite technical, didn't seem too bad.

[TeleRoss]

that looks pretty cool

is the approach the same as for the Squaw?

[Sol]

that looks pretty cool

is the approach the same as for the Squaw?

yep, go left along trail at base of birds of prey past some fixed line projects for about 100m. pitch 1 is easy to spot.