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Jimbo and I did the likely 2nd ascent of this climb last summer. see trip report here:

 

Mt Hardy TR

 

Its full-on, but not too bad. As you will see through the discussion on the TR its pretty hard to stay "on route." We ended up doing a direct variation which put us right below the 5.10 belayer slayer, flake pitch, seen in the photo in Nelson's book. We called it the Litterbox Direct 5.9+ R/X. It involved a gripping mantle using clumps of grass and piles of grain as handholds about 35 feet out from shitty pro. There is a fixed aluminium offset on this pitch that we left, the only fixed piece we saw on the climb. Beware, good luck. I broke about five handholds off trying to free the 5.10d pitch, i also did a bunch of gardening on that pitch as well, the FFA could be yours. cool.gif

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