climbing4fun2000 Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 Since it now appears that I will not be able to arrange the Middle/South Sister climbs I'm again looking for some advice. If you only had time to work one of the following mountains, which one would you choose? Mt. Washington or Mt. Theilson? I should be heading down in about 3-4 weeks and there's a chance I'll be alone. With this information which mountain and route would you recommend and why? Thanks! P.S. If it looks like I might have to solo, is there anyone out there who would care to join me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RStewbone Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 climbing4fun, Mt.Washington seems more interesting and I think it would be a good choice if you have a partner. I have done the easy way. You can email me if you would like to do it. I have not done Thielson but know people who did it unroped and said they were ok with it.Washington requires a 2 rope rappel or 60 meter and short chossy downclimb. The west face may be a better route if you are proficient at traditional rock. Three pitches of 5.6. The easy route is the north ridge but the rock is junk although not as bad as some of it's neighbors. I guess the rock on the west face is good. Thielson seems like a long way to go for an easy climb but may be a better solo climb. I have extra equiptment although little is needed. Let me know. [This message has been edited by RStewbone (edited 08-21-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted August 22, 2001 Share Posted August 22, 2001 I've been on both. I much preferred Washington. The North Ridge is a fun scramble - good solo. The West Ridge is a good mid-fifth class route if you and a partner are comfortable with loose rock (there's a fair bit of what we called "cascade dinner-plate" stacked on it). I have not done the West Face, but to my recollection, it was reputed to be harder than 5.6. Thielsen is a helluva long drive for not much of a climb, but might be worth a day side-trip if you're headed for Crater Lake or points south... Have fun! [This message has been edited by haireball (edited 08-21-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RStewbone Posted August 24, 2001 Share Posted August 24, 2001 Hairball,(sp.) I didn't grade the west face, Jeff Thomas does in his book "Oregon High".He also offers grades for the route you mentioned and several variations. He contends that the direct start of the west ridge is 5.8 and that the south wall is 5.6 and joins the ridge at a spot that avoids the dinner plates. I recommended a partner because the rock is friable adding to the danger. Liability based on recommendation is why every climbing guide has a huge disclaimer.If you soloed the route I'm very proud of you but I didn't feel comfortable recommending that to someone I don't know.RStewbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imorris Posted August 24, 2001 Share Posted August 24, 2001 If you have a full weekend, I'd recommend linking up Three-Fingered Jack as well. The south ridge is a similar climb to Washington's north ridge. 2 pitches of very easy rock at the top (about 5.1). A nice casual climb so you can do both in a weekend. People solo both of these routes, but I would be remiss to recommend that not knowing your experience on rock. Bring a rope and some sling anyways to rappel if you solo, since the downclimb sucks. Sept is a great time to be on these two routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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