[TR] SEWS- Southwest Buttress 9/23/2006

[still_climbin]

Climb: SEWS-Southwest Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 9/23/2006

 

Trip Report:

George and I drove to Washington Pass Friday night in hopes of hitting a weather window without rain or snow. After a couple beers at the Winthrop Brew Pub we sacked out with hopes under the stars. By morning it had clouded again so we took our time before leaving the trail head and meandered up the trail hoping for the clouds to disolve and let the sun warm the rock.

 

We started climbing about 10:00 am. Although the rock was basically dry the lichens were damp and with the air temperature around 40 degrees our shoes didn't stick well... But, we started anyway. I led the crux 5.8 offwidth and found it easy and secure. The next pitch was the same and as the temperature began to slowly warm, the rock felt better to the hands. The "nervous 5.6" friction pitch was something else. Any sand on the ledges was wet and stuck to the shoes. That coupled with the cold sole rubber and damp lichens brought "nervous" to new heights for me. I'll have to say I had more adreneline on the crux friction move (about 15 feet out from my questionable Alien placement) than I've had in a while...but it worked. As if the weather was just waiting for that thilling moment, the couds parted, the sun began to warm the rock and the rest of the day was stellar. The remaining pitches, the "Bear Hug", etc. were easy and enjoyable. All in all we had a very good climb. The route is interesting every pitch and the rock and scenery are classic.

 

Sorry to say that the climb, my eighth technical summit of the year, is likely my last for the season since my consulting business has taken off. This climb will give me lots to dream about 'til next year.

 

Pics:

The SW Buttress an a cold morning

 

 

The "nervous" part of the "nervous 5.6"

 

 

Yet another Bear Hug photo

 

 

The summit pitch

 

 

The Old Man of the Summit.

 

 

Gear: A #4 C4 Cam was nice to have several places.

Loved the maiden voyage of my new Mammut 8.9mm single rope.

Edited September 27, 2006 by still_climbin

[Alpinfox]

WOOHOO!

 

Awesome climb.

 

I can't believe I haven't gotten to WA Pass this year. Thanks for sharing the stoke.

[ericb]

Great climb...did it a few weeks ago...good going....FWIW, that 5.6 friction pitch is sketchy even when dry. I didn't lead it, but Blake thought it was scarier than any of the 5.8 on the route.

[Blake]

FWIW, that 5.6 friction pitch is sketchy even when dry. I didn't lead it, but Blake thought it was scarier than any of the 5.8 on the route.

 

Edit that... I thoguht it was scarier than even the 5.10whatever finger crack on P.3