Crack N Up still in use 2006

[billcoe]

 

Joseph still sometimes hauls these damn things around and actually and shockingly finds and uses placements. Here's a pic Ujhan Davisson took of JH's first piece on the second ascent of "The 3rd Rail" which Joe led out at Beacon last month.

 

I have a few of these which have lain fallow and unused in my basement for 20 years. (I don't think they've made them for about that long?) My buddie Andrew Trzynka would call them "Death N Ups", which may have influenced my thoughts on them as pro for free or aid.

 

One of the weaknesses of the pro which Joseph addressed via a modification was the tendency of these little F*uckers to catch on every little rugosite as they are hanging straight down off your rack via a sling. The wire you see sticking out in space off the piece above, JH swaged onto it and is for racking only, it effectivly flips the pieces upsidedown on your rack and keeps them from hanging up and effect placing themselves while you are you climbing (thus anchoring your from making upwards movements!).

 

Later development that Bridwell did was to saw off one side of the "pick". This kept aid leaders from having the back part of the sharp end rip into their eye if it blew while they were standing on it. Peckers and beaks are still made to this day.

 

I like climbing with Joseph, and he pulls these damn things out occasionally and uses them in a bold, yet surprisingly controlled and safe way.

 

Anyone else still using them?