slothrop Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 wbk and I went to Neverland yesterday after a forgotten-harness fiasco at the base of the Index Lower Town Wall. A few observations: Lost Boys - The route on the right is easily done as a single 60m ropelength. 5.9. Cool exposure as the route moves left. - The "two-pitch" route up the right side of the slab (10a) is really fun after the initial move. Dirt comes down a lot from the ledge above. Rappelling on a single 60m rope gets you down from the second anchor, atop the slab. - The dike route above the slab anchor is pretty loose. Ben fell once on lead when a handhold came off and almost killed me when his foot kicked off a soccer-ball sized chunk. There are still a few suspect flakes up there. Don't belay at the bolts, fer chrissake, there's a nice comfy ledge with a tree for flying choss protection. Croc Wall - The "10a" on the left seems a little harder than that. Dirty. Hook Wall - You can easily move between the three top anchors, which lets you do all three routes without rappelling until after the last lap. Nice. Cool area with a very short approach. You could get in a 12-pitch day in the 5.10 range here. See here: http://www.deceptioncrags.com/BookUpdates/Exit38/Neverland.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 forgotten harness shouldn't stopped you at index! you can make a swiss seat out of cordellete or even a double runner! those x38 climbs sound fun though, at least you salvaged your day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 Yeah, well, I had my harness... It was a good day, though. Ben's punishment is to lead the Butt Lips Chimney next trip to Index. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 1, 2006 Share Posted September 1, 2006 Bummer to have to trade an Index day for an X38 day. How do you know when it's bedtime at Neverland? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted September 1, 2006 Author Share Posted September 1, 2006 It's bedtime when you forget to bring your helmet while belaying the dike pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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