Exit 38, Neverland

[slothrop]

wbk and I went to Neverland yesterday after a forgotten-harness fiasco at the base of the Index Lower Town Wall. A few observations:

 

Lost Boys

- The route on the right is easily done as a single 60m ropelength. 5.9. Cool exposure as the route moves left.

- The "two-pitch" route up the right side of the slab (10a) is really fun after the initial move. Dirt comes down a lot from the ledge above. Rappelling on a single 60m rope gets you down from the second anchor, atop the slab.

- The dike route above the slab anchor is pretty loose. Ben fell once on lead when a handhold came off and almost killed me when his foot kicked off a soccer-ball sized chunk. There are still a few suspect flakes up there. Don't belay at the bolts, fer chrissake, there's a nice comfy ledge with a tree for flying choss protection.

 

Croc Wall

- The "10a" on the left seems a little harder than that. Dirty.

 

Hook Wall

- You can easily move between the three top anchors, which lets you do all three routes without rappelling until after the last lap. Nice.

 

Cool area with a very short approach. You could get in a 12-pitch day in the 5.10 range here.

 

See here: http://www.deceptioncrags.com/BookUpdates/Exit38/Neverland.htm

[Blake]

forgotten harness shouldn't stopped you at index! you can make a swiss seat out of cordellete or even a double runner!

 

those x38 climbs sound fun though, at least you salvaged your day.

[slothrop]

Yeah, well, I had my harness... It was a good day, though. Ben's punishment is to lead the Butt Lips Chimney next trip to Index.

[Alpinfox]

Bummer to have to trade an Index day for an X38 day.

 

 

How do you know when it's bedtime at Neverland?

[slothrop]

It's bedtime when you forget to bring your helmet while belaying the dike pitch.