Wedge Mountain North Arete

[roadie]

Anyone have any idea what kind of condition this would be right now? Would two screws and one tool be sufficient?

 

I've never been there and I'm looking for something interesting and not too difficult for the weekend.

 

Hans

[jordop]

Kinda depends on your headspace. It really isn't that steep but if you need pro maybe a picket or two would be more useful than screws.

[northvanclimber]

you probably won't need much pro as many people routinely solo the route, but it kinda depends on your experience level. expect some ice at this time of year. regardless, you might only be able to get onto the ridge via the weart-wedge col, as the alternate route that short cuts part of the ridge by accessing the ridge via the slope above the icefall probably has a huge bergshrund across it right now.

 

fun ridge, have fun on it! i did nearby mt. weart a month or so ago. probably harder to get onto the face right now due to the huge bergshrund, but i'd definately recommend the route to people. just bring a little bit of rock pro for getting onto the face.

[jmace]

what face..? North

[northvanclimber]

whoops... should've mentioned the route (although only one is depicted in alpine select.. but yeah, the north face of weart...

[jmace]

thanks, ya that book is limited, Dru needs to re-write Fairly

[G-spotter]

I'll do it if you write all my thesis, assignments and work reports for the next 3 years

[northvanclimber]

no thanks. just finished my thesis this summer!

[jordop]

As I hear it from gurus, sages, and freaks, the largest obstacle to updating Fairley is the fact that Gordon Soules owns the copyright and that one cannot simply "add-on" to Fairley, as Fairley did to Culbert. That or re-publish with Soules.