SEWS SW Rib rating Question

[Blake]

The third pitch of the SW Rib of SEWS (above the 5.8 Offwidth) has a few options and one of them is a finger crack above a black/licheny slab. It begins as a rightward layback, (the corner is only about 4") then goes to straight-in finger locks, and then you can move right and to a wider left-facing corner, or some wide stemming. It's on a light-colored vertical face.

 

I'm trying to figure out which variation this is, and what it is rated. Does anyone know?

[DirtyHarry]

Who knows. I think I've done it. Thought it was about .10a.

[Winter]

That's the 5.9 layback variation in the Beckey guide. Fun fun fun. Should be able to run it all the way to the base of the bear hug.

[DirtyHarry]

I'm thinking of something different that is a straight in steep finger crack.

[Blake]

That's the 5.9 layback variation in the Beckey guide. Fun fun fun. Should be able to run it all the way to the base of the bear hug.

 

felt stiffer than an index .9 to me, and WA pass is softer than index. Maybe i am just out of shape.

[Winter]

Don't know. I'm pretty sure I climbed what you're talking about a couple weeks ago and I assumed that had to the be the .9 lieback. The crack I climbed was pretty obvious from the base and looked like the crack went left at the top but I finished it striaght up or slightly to the right in a small corner.

[Blake]

There's a finger crack in there as well that beckey calls A1 or .10+ and it was the only option mentioned in the older edition of the CAG. (apparently before it had been freed because it was first just listed as A1)