New bolts/shrubs on Centerfold-tat on Heavens gate

[Matt_Anderson]

Got on Centerfold on Saturday. Haven't been on it for about 8 -10 years (maybe more). Seems to me someone added a bolt or three to the second pitch. The old pin at the end of the traverse is still there, 6-10 feet or so above it is a bright shiny bolt. There's a placement not far from it (small cam or small nut). I don't think that bolt was there when I first climbed it. Matter 'o fact, there are a bunch of bolts on that pitch. By "bunch" I mean about 4. Essentially theres about a 4 botl stretch where you don't need to place a single piece of pro if you don't want to. Someone let me know if I'm wrong and they have always been there.

 

If they haven't always been there, it doesn't seem that the extra bolts have helped the climb, regardless of whether the first ascentionist approved of them. I remember that pitch being a bit heady, but that pro was there when you needed it (for anyone who could lead the rest of the route, anyway), you just needed to be creative and mind your P's and Q's.

 

Also, if anyone is getting on it, I'd bring along some gardening implements. There's a four foot tree that's growing in the middle of the last pitch and a few black berry bushes growing on that same pitch. They don't make it horrible to climb right now, but It'd be a good idea to get a head start on nature.

 

Finally, someone left 3 or 4 long orange slings on the first pitch of Heaven's gate. It looks like they used them as pro when climbing it (slit the knots into the crack). They were spaced throughout the pitch, so it's not as if someone bailed and used them to get down. They seemed pretty old/bleached by the sun (although I was on it a few weeks ago with another friend and they weren't there then - amazing how fast the sun can tatter webbing if they were fresh when placed). Anyway, I removed them, there's no need to have ugly fixed gear on that route. It protects fine, without the webbing protection, and if you insist on using the knots instead of normal gear (Maybe not a bad idea, given the hollow nature of some of the flakes on that first pitch) you can clean them just like you would any other gear.

 

Matt

[G-spotter]

Do you think the blackberry bushes were placed on lead, or were they retroshrubbed?

[pope]

I remember maybe one pin and one bolt supplementing good protection with challenging climbing. Sounds like somebody can't let a good climb be. I agree with your comment that even with a nod from the first ascensionist, adding bolts to a well-protected popular climb is out of line, in general (not to imply I know anything about the identitiy of the clowns responsible for this stunt, or whom they did or didn't consult first). Time to organize one of those Index work parties. I'm available.

[archenemy]

Me too.