ericb Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Are both ice axe and crampons a necessity this time of year...anybody been up there lately or late august in previous years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Neither are ever a necessity. If the glacier is icy walk an extra quarter mile down the ridge toward Little Annapurna and go down that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 What about getting on the route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottgg Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Neither are really necessary, as you can descend off the south side via two 30m raps and a bit of loose down climbing, then traverse snow/scree to Asgard Pass. Good climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 What about getting on the route? Won't be a problem without axe/pons. In fact, you probably won't even touch snow right now. On the other hand, the direct descent could be a little dicey without axe/pons. The snow will be very baked down and firm, so you won't get much traction in running shoes. If you don't take pons+axe, plan on doing the lower angle longer descent towards McClellan Peak/Annapurna like Alasdair mentioned. It'll probably add about 30 minutes to your descent. If you DO take pons and/or an axe, the aluminum ultralight versions will be sufficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 thanks all...not for me but a buddy at work - much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Another note. SA has been the scene of quite a few epics with people doing unplanned bivys on the summit and such. If your friend is somewhat new to alpine climbing, encourage them to get an early start and try to move as quickly and efficiently as possible. It's a long route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Told him as much....he claims both he and his buddy are strong 5.10 trad climbers +1 in a pinch. I told them to bring headlamps and think about doing a pre-dawn approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 A recent TR with unplanned bivy Or course, if you are fast, your TR might read like THIS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted August 31, 2006 Author Share Posted August 31, 2006 Yep...saw that...there were some comments in the TR that led me to believe they were not as experienced as my buddy at work.... Nonetheless...they actually ended up doing the NR of Stewart. Tried it in a day from Tenaway and did the upper with Gendarme. Made to the bottom of the CC by about 10PM and crashed on their packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted August 31, 2006 Share Posted August 31, 2006 Yep...saw that...there were some comments in the TR that led me to believe they were not as experienced as my buddy at work.... Nonetheless...they actually ended up doing the NR of Stewart. Tried it in a day from Tenaway and did the upper with Gendarme. Made to the bottom of the CC by about 10PM and crashed on their packs. Sweet. Ask them to post a TR and some pictures here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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