Serpentine Arete

[ericb]

Are both ice axe and crampons a necessity this time of year...anybody been up there lately or late august in previous years?

[Alasdair]

Neither are ever a necessity. If the glacier is icy walk an extra quarter mile down the ridge toward Little Annapurna and go down that way.

[ericb]

What about getting on the route?

[scottgg]

Neither are really necessary, as you can descend off the south side via two 30m raps and a bit of loose down climbing, then traverse snow/scree to Asgard Pass. Good climb!

[Alpinfox]

What about getting on the route?

Won't be a problem without axe/pons. In fact, you probably won't even touch snow right now.

 

On the other hand, the direct descent could be a little dicey without axe/pons. The snow will be very baked down and firm, so you won't get much traction in running shoes. If you don't take pons+axe, plan on doing the lower angle longer descent towards McClellan Peak/Annapurna like Alasdair mentioned. It'll probably add about 30 minutes to your descent. If you DO take pons and/or an axe, the aluminum ultralight versions will be sufficient.

[ericb]

thanks all...not for me but a buddy at work - much appreciated.

[Alpinfox]

 

Another note.

 

SA has been the scene of quite a few epics with people doing unplanned bivys on the summit and such. If your friend is somewhat new to alpine climbing, encourage them to get an early start and try to move as quickly and efficiently as possible. It's a long route.

[ericb]

Told him as much....he claims both he and his buddy are strong 5.10 trad climbers +1 in a pinch. I told them to bring headlamps and think about doing a pre-dawn approach.

[Alpinfox]

 

A recent TR with unplanned bivy

 

Or course, if you are fast, your TR might read like THIS

 

 

[ericb]

Yep...saw that...there were some comments in the TR that led me to believe they were not as experienced as my buddy at work....

 

Nonetheless...they actually ended up doing the NR of Stewart. Tried it in a day from Tenaway and did the upper with Gendarme. Made to the bottom of the CC by about 10PM and crashed on their packs.

[Alpinfox]

Yep...saw that...there were some comments in the TR that led me to believe they were not as experienced as my buddy at work....

 

Nonetheless...they actually ended up doing the NR of Stewart. Tried it in a day from Tenaway and did the upper with Gendarme. Made to the bottom of the CC by about 10PM and crashed on their packs.

 

Sweet.

 

Ask them to post a TR and some pictures here.