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The approach gully right below the notch. The snow will be completely gone and it will be full of loose rock. You can rappel the steep parts on the way down. The first rap is a single with a 60 meter rope. The second might not go with a single. Better plan on doubles.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I guess this is kind of late info, but it was fine last weekend. No moat issues. I thought the gully was pretty nice as approach gullies go. Some loose crap (don't bring a big party), but not dangerous - much of it is nice fun blocky 3rd class. Downclimbing it was fine.

Edited by philfort

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