catbirdseat Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 (edited) Climb: Fee Demo Wall-Million Dollar Footbridge, 5.9 Date of Climb: 8/17/2006 Trip Report: Rather than going to Exit 32/38 as we usually do on a Thursday evening, we decided to check out Fee Demo Wall which is located on the north face of Steggosaurus Butte on the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River. Larry and I carpooled up from the QFC and met Jimbabwe at the trailhead at Taylor River. A 15 minute hike had us to the base of the wall. It was dry and looked pretty clean. I led up the first pitch of Million Dollar Footbridge on a single 60 meter rope. This is a really nice route with very consistantly challenging climbing at the 5.9 level. It's a real rope-stretcher. My belayer had one meter of rope left when I clipped into the chains. To my surprise, rope drag became a significant factor near the end of the pitch. [Found a pair of carabiners on a bolt half-way up, attesting to a previous visit by climbers who forgot to bring a second rope] The #2 TCU mentioned in the Topo is really optional, as the climbing at that particular place is easy. A #8 or so B/D nut might work there too. First I brought up Larry, who is a beginner rock climber and then Jim. This was Larry's first 5.9 slab climb. He had some difficulty in places but did a good job. Jim took the second pitch, which looked a lot grungier than the first. This pitch is 5.10, but of about the same difficulty overall as the first. It does have a more difficult crux about three or four bolts from the top. The moss on the rock was more a mental factor than physical. The good foot placements were all clean. Still, that second pitch could use a bit of scrubbing. Don't let the foreshortening in the topo fool you. The second pitch is nearly as long as the first, about 55 meters. My impression is that Fee Demo Wall is a place I'd like to go back to with more time. I thought the route we did was well thought-out. The bolts were all well placed to protect the hard moves. There is zero chance of a Z-clip as the bolts are never closer to one another than 10 feet or so. An earlier cc.com post on Fee Demo Wall Gear Notes: 14 draws 1 60 meter rope 1 50 or 60 meter rope Approach Notes: A very easy and pleasant approach. Don't forget your Trail Park Pass. Edited August 18, 2006 by catbirdseat Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 18, 2006 Author Posted August 18, 2006 I might add that most of the bolts are stainless steel. For some reason a few of them were not stainless and the constant stream of water that comes down in winter is rusting them. The anchor for the first pitch is an example. They'll need to be replaced eventually. Quote
spicoli11 Posted August 18, 2006 Posted August 18, 2006 Ha.....I think those were my friends biners you found. And yes you are right about the two ropes. I rarely see anyone else out there...must be the slab factor. Quote
minx Posted August 19, 2006 Posted August 19, 2006 (edited) CBS- what length of rope were you using? We took 2 60 meters when we were there recently. While we definitely needed both ropes to get down we had plenty of rope left to make the chains on that pitch. Way more than one meter. My partners particularly enjoyed the .10d next to it. It was deemed a fun lead with a good pucker factor. You should give that one a try next time you're there. It was a little to tricky for a wuss like me to enjoy. Edited August 19, 2006 by minx Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 22, 2006 Author Posted August 22, 2006 The rope belonged to my friend. He claimed it was 60 meters. Perhaps it was shorter than that. My belayer may also have used up a bunch of rope anchoring himself to a tree. Quote
Dechristo Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 My belayer may also have used up a bunch of rope anchoring himself to a tree. Quote
Dechristo Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 You are quick. I usually hear that sentence delivered in a female voice with the accompanying emotion/emoticon of Quote
scottgg Posted August 22, 2006 Posted August 22, 2006 Thanks for sharing CBS! Checked the area out Sunday evening, and I'm looking forward to going back. Quote
Duroxmanie Posted August 23, 2006 Posted August 23, 2006 I visited Fee Demo Wall a few weeks ago and had a great experience. Found the 5.9 to be as reported above; also did Sub Aqueous which felt much harder than 10b (like 10d?). Gear notes on the topo are exactly right. All in all, a fantastic area. Could use a little brushing in some areas and I'll bring one on my return. The Million Dollar Footbridge (the actual footbridge) is impressive and beautiful. Quote
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