Mount Cruiser

[Fairweather]

Climbed Mt Cruiser in one day from Staircase R.S. yesterday with my brother Steve and Terry Mclain. I'm more of a glacier/alpine climber so the route seemed harder than the 5.0 it is rated...in fact, I'm sure the first few moves on the pitch above The Chockstone are 5.4. A lot of exposure, but there always seemed to be protection (bolts; a couple of small cracks) just when you needed it. Crampons make the climb up to Needle Pass easier, and two ropes make the descent faster. (3-double rope rappels from just below summit to base of the gully beneath the chockstone.) No other parties on the route.

This climb may be faster from Mildred Lakes/Hamma Hamma side.

[robertm]

Brian, how is the rock? Is the climb worth the hike? I always look at Cruisier each time I pull out the Olympics guide.

Thanks

[Fairweather]

Robertm,

Great friction and the rock on the summit pinnacle is 100% solid. It is real crappy below the giant chockstone though. There was no one else on the route and I think that ascending while others were rappeling would have bee a bit hairy. You cant rap directly off the summit...we belayed down to a small ledge with two new-ish looking bolts and rappelled from there straight down to the top of the chockstone. Used two ropes but one 50m might do it.

Hope this helps.

Brian