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Posted

Climb: Sloan-Corkscrew

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2006

 

Trip Report:

A couple of us decided to extend the weekend and go up Sloan via the corkscrew on a Monday. The temps were in the 90's in Seattle, so we figured it might be a sizzler. Actually, it stayed pleasant and there was a bunch of runoff on the glacier that we guzzled frequently and thus were able to keep our packs pretty light. The glacier is still pretty filled in. The ledges are free of snow. We made it in a little under 12 hours car to car. We had a pretty decent pace up (maybe .5 - .6 on the SkyKilo/TeleRoss scale) but took lots of breaks to drink water and take in the scenery.

 

Here is the view leaving the trees:

 

4421IMGP2104-med.JPG

 

Heading up the glacier

 

4421IMGP2117-med.JPG

 

Looking back on the ledge - nice wide path, not so nice slip consequences.

 

4421IMGP2138-med.JPG

 

Summit

 

4421IMGP2166-med.JPG

 

Glacier Peak

 

4421IMGP2160-med.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Light boots, usual glacier gear (pretty solid bridges right now though), aluminum crampons

 

Approach Notes:

sandals for crossing the Sauk are good. The trail is a bit overgrown, but there is tape marking it.

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Posted

Yes - pretty filled in on the glacier right now. Would be a nice solo trip IMO.

 

Side note: The sign in box mentioned a real big drop off in goats and asked climbers to report any - we didn't see a single one up there. Hadn't heard of this before - wonder what is up?

Posted (edited)

Update on Sloan Corkscrew Conditions from 8/6

 

Sauk river crossing remains no problem. Just below knee deep -- and not moving very fast -- in the spot we crossed but you could wander upstream a bit and find a lower crossing. The water level did not change at between when we crossed it on the way up and hit it again on the way out.

 

Glacier is still in good shape. The bridges are still in in the route that goes up the glacier via the diagonal route. Good firm steps but the width of the bridges is shrinking. The route up the glacier on the climbers right is largely without any crevasse issues until you are traversing across the top of the glacier and get close to the exit point

Edited by iluka

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