[TR] Mt Adams- lava headwall 7/15/2006

[letsroll]

Climb: Mt Adams-lava headwall

 

Date of Climb: 7/15/2006

 

Trip Report:

After reading the TR from last weekend was inspired to head up and knock out a couple of routes on adams this past weekend. The plan: Port and I head up early sat morn pack in to high camp set up base camp and head up Lava Headwall. Jlag meets us at base camp sat for food and sleep. Get up early to do Adams glacier and get the heck out of there.

Every thing was going according to plan till we were over the north ridge and looked at the headwall. Melted out...and too crazy for me to climb. ALternet plan, ok more like a joke but we did it anyway. Lava Ridge. We gained the ridge about half way up via long snow finger on its west side. Topped out were the ridge flates out to the summit. Port and I were tired and still had to down climb the Sweetest rout of all time, the north ridge, besides we were planning on doing Adams the next day. After a nice long and leg buring down climb of the north ridge we got back to camp and no sign of Jlag. A bit worried we cooked up food and a couple of hours later we went looking for him from the ridges below camp. No sign. At this point we were in need of some new blood for motivation since that was not in the cards the decision was made to skip Adams. So we did not wast all that time we dicided to do some TR ice climbing on Adams in the morning and head out in the afternoon. We woke up at the late hour of 6:45 am, ate and headed out. Now the regret starts to settle in, Darn It we should have done Adams. It was sitting there in the morning light beckoning to us. In fact I could hear it, "climb me.....CLIMB ME....climb me." Anyway ice climbing was fun, had never done that.

We ran across several parties this past weekend and most were enticed to head up adams after reading the TR from the previouse weekend. At least one party of 2 made it on sat. No one headed up sunday after looking at a couple of slides that occured sat. Snow conditions were great early in the day for everything, but when the sun hit it the snow started to get soft very fast on all aspects.

Oh well maybe I need to take a day off work and head up to bag that sucker. Or next time just say no to being a sucker.

 

Gear Notes:

took all the gear for lava. did not use the rope, and carried that thing all damn day.

Edited July 17, 2006 by letsroll

[Couloir]

Nice work! So, did I miss something, what became of Jlag??

[jlag]

Jlag starting feeling "ill" on Friday night. Starting feeling worse on the drive to Adams. Just in head, keep going. By Madras Jlag felt like somebody gave him a Roofy, just in your head, a good hike will make you feel better. Turned around in Warm Springs and have been sleeping and feeling like shit since.

[Couloir]

Jlag starting feeling "ill" on Friday night. Starting feeling worse on the drive to Adams. Just in head, keep going. By Madras Jlag felt like somebody gave him a Roofy, just in your head, a good hike will make you feel better. Turned around in Warm Springs and have been sleeping and feeling like shit since.

Been there

[sparverius]

Nice work letsroll. I think we camped close to you on sat. night. We were the party of three that scoped out the adams glacier while you guys were resting after the climb. We headed up early (1:30) sunday morning and took advantage of the firm snow before it got too warm. We topped out on the glacier as the sun was rising and had the summit to ourselves. It was a perfect morning for a climb. There was a party of three climbing the adams glacier as we were descending the north ridge.