banji Posted July 15, 2006 Posted July 15, 2006 Looking to climb N. Ridge of Mt Assiniboine first week of August. Should be dry up there - anyone have any info/experience? have any recommendations for the rack? specifics would be appreciated, I'm a newbie when it comes to leading on rock. Quote
jefffski Posted July 15, 2006 Posted July 15, 2006 solo up, rap some sections down. you may need crampons to cross to the base in the am. the rock bands go at 5.6. if you need to lead these bring large nuts and alpine draws. beware, the rest is a pile of choss. Quote
roadie Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 Went up there two years ago in fairly dry conditions and it was really straightforward. Climbed a half pitch at the second rock band, and shortroped the rest of the way. I placed 2 pieces of gear in total and clipped a piton. Soloing wouldn't be that big of a deal if it's dry. There are rap stations to take you below the upper rock band if you don't want to downclimb. To be honest, the aproach to the hut from Magog lake was harder than the climb. Quote
tlinn Posted July 21, 2006 Posted July 21, 2006 Approach from the Radium side...not the Canmore side. Way faster than coming in via lake Magog. Quote
jefffski Posted July 23, 2006 Posted July 23, 2006 the backside approach is cheaper too--parking is free. the hike in is shorter-7 hours but pretty hard. Quote
banji Posted July 23, 2006 Author Posted July 23, 2006 i think we're taking the 9 minute approach from canmore. ain't cheap. Quote
fatswaller Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Hard to beat the Assininboine pass route for scenery.Its fairly casual and the miles go by fast.Once past the head wall there is no need for mt. boots or crampons in a dry year.We only belayed a short bit at the upper rock band and ran the rest.Made 4 to 5 raps on the decent. Not to hard a route by Rockies standard in the right conditions.Great peak to bag. Quote
banji Posted July 28, 2006 Author Posted July 28, 2006 Just got a recent report and apparently it's still pretty iced up. Anyone climbed it when it wasn't dry? Quote
Der_Wanderer Posted July 31, 2006 Posted July 31, 2006 I just climbed it on 7/25. It's not iced up. I didn't bring crampons. There is snow, but I was able to circumnavigate all of it but one teeny section where I just chopped a single step. I'm guessing it's even easier now. I soloed the entire route and rapped down whenever I could. The nature of the climbed described by folks here is accurate. Have a good time! Quote
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