Mt Maude NF?

[Haydar]

Looking at the TRs here, it seems most traverse from Maude-7FJ col to the NF proper as described in Nelson&Pfield. Does anybody have some insight how the Ice Lake-Entiat Gl. traverse from the east side compare?

Thanks!

[Alpinfox]

 

Haven't done it, but it's supposed to be a really nice flatish hike through old growth timber. Significantly longer than the col approach though.

 

Report back with your impressions if you choose to go that way. I've considered doing it that way.

[DonnV]

I can't compare them since I've never done the 7FJ approach, but coming in from Ice Lakes was very straightforward. I came in via Phelps Creek trail and Leroy Creek Basin, then traversed across to the lakes (see CAG Vol II). I think this is longer than the approach Nelson suggests, but pretty easy. And if you bivy at the saddle above Ice Lakes (which was pretty nice), a descent of the S Shoulder drops you pretty much back at camp.

[philfort]

The traverse from Ice Lakes is very straightforward, I did it a few weeks ago. I don't think it would add too much time compared to going from the Maude-7FJ col (assuming you get to Ice Lakes from Leroy Basin). Be prepared for some low-angle glacier ice on the traverse.

 

It might add a bergschrund to your climb too (it was well bridged on the far climbers right 10 days ago).

Edited July 11, 2006 by philfort

[Haydar]

Thank you guys, will report back, if we end up going in this weekend.

 

Checked out your website Phil, good stuff as usual, nice ski on Maude way to go!

 

-haydar

[Haydar]

We climbed the north face of Maude from Ice Lakes via Entiat glacier. It adds a bit to the distance but if you come from the col you miss the bottom part of the N. Face which is interesting and almost as steep as the top part plus the Entiat traverse (it took three of us about 4 hours to summit from the edge of the glacier). The conditions on the glacier are good, the face is discontinuous in the middle section but otherwise still in good shape.

Know_fear posted a TR here:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/589216/an/0/page/0#589216

 

My TR is on summitpost:

http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/208610/climbing-the-north-face-of-mt-maude.html