[TR] Johannesberg- East Ridge 6/22/2006

[Trent]

Climb: Johannesberg-East Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/22/2006

 

Trip Report:

Dallas Kloke and I climbed Johannesberg Mountain on Thursday the 22nd. It was Dallas’ seventh time on the summit, once via a new route. This has got to be some sort of a record.

We started from the gate below Cascade Pass at 0500, proceeded up the road to the hairpin turn just below the parking lot. We dropped our tennis shoes there, donned the boots and made our way up the CJ couloir to the col where we dropped the bivy gear.

Dallas quickly found the third class gulley to climb in the reduced visibility, which took us to the snow slopes which lead to the East Ridge. We followed the ridge which consisted of mostly easy scrambling on loose rock to the summit. This took us seven and a half hours from the car.

This summit was especially significant for me. Three years ago, I had my finger badly broken by rock-fall while climbing the CJ couloir. Two plates, six pins, and three surgeries later, I own the worlds most expensive but somewhat range of motion limited finger. At least it is not the middle finger; I get allot of use out of that one.

The descent of the route was tedious, requiring some careful scrambling along the ridge, and belayed down-climbing of the steep snow on the East face. A final rap found us down at the CJ col thirteen hours after leaving the car.

After a gorgeous bivy at the CJ col, we bagged the Southwest Peak of the Triplets on the way out. Instead of taking “Doug’s Direct”, we descended a gully just to the West of Mixup Peak. With only one rope, we were forced to construct several rap anchors in the bad rock. Two ropes would have taken us all the way to boot skiing territory on established anchors. This exit was much quicker than “Doug’s Direct”, and deposited us well below Cascade Pass with no scrambling required.

We were not quite done yet. A route finding error led us to a wet cliff above a waterfall. A quick rap let us down to the snow and to the road, which was now open.

For Dallas’ trip report and a few pictures, check out

http://skagitalpineclub.com/Newsletters/Johannesburg%20TR.htm

 

Gear Notes:

Four pickets, no rock pro required

 

Approach Notes:

Snow conditions good in the couloir and on the mountain.

Edited July 22, 2006 by Trent