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Posted

Climb: Sun God-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 6/25/2006

 

Trip Report:

Chris Kiely and I climbed this on Sunday. With a 2 AM start from Squamish, we were on top by nine.

 

Right now the face is nothing more than 30 to 40 degree snow except right at the top where the last 100m or so push up to 40-45 and the last 10 meters over the cornice are maybe 50 degree. I dunno if it would get Alpine F or Alpine PD but it sure is easy and fun too. The total elevation gain from the car is >1100m of which about 600m is "climbing" and the rest is "approach".

 

I've never heard of any ascents of this face as a climbing objective but judging by the tracks we saw all the chutes on the face get climbed and skiied. Although it's kind of suncuppy now it will be in good shape for both climbing and skiing for a couple more weeks before it melts out to rubble.

 

This was good enough that I would do it again if given the opportunity.

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons, two tools but could do it with one

 

Approach Notes:

2wd to 17km on Tenquille Creek Road; last spur to face is 4wd... road runs all the way to moraine, less than 5 minutes of bushwacking gets you on snow at base of route.

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Posted

Kool bigdrink.gif Saw that sucka from Taillefer same day/time and thought of your designs upon it. Maybe I should looked harder at the face with binocs or something and I would seen you rockband.gif

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