Info on Shuksan Pyramid for upcoming trip

[MountainAsylum]

whats up guys,

I'm looking for a bit more detailed info on the Shuksan Summit Pyramid--that's a bit more informative than the general TR. Right now I'm waiting on some guidebooks in the mail, however, we would like to better plan ahead, aka, whether shuksan is a viable option or not for my trip partners and I. We're going to be in the Cascades from the Fourth to the 16th of July. (From NC) My main question concerning our potential shuksan attempt is:

1. Just how involved is the Summit pyramid around this time of year? (Address this to a seasonal climber with general trad and steep snow/glacier experience) Summits i did in 2004 in the cascades during a month long stint included Eldorado, Sahale and Dome, none of which involved any real rock, aside from perhaps a small scramble at the top.) I've gotten mixed messages about the summit pyramid from my reading...e.g. some people protecting it, others scrambling up without, then rapping down, others doing it all sans rope. I read one report which mentioned a sort of public fixed line being suspended from the top, and anothers saying there were 'no decent pro placement options on the chossy rock.' I know conditions vary due to snowmelt and occasional ice, has anyone been up there recently? I imagine the prime climbing season has been somewhat delayed due to the extra snowfall received this past year, and it things may still look like a typical June (which was when i was there in 2004) still well into July.

If someone didn't mind, I'd appreciate an honest sum-up of what conditions YOU think a climber would face once at the base of the summit cone during the aforementioned provided time frame, and your general recommendation of how you would approach it (assuming good weather). Being out of season in terms of pure vertical climbing strength, the easier route the better. (From what i've heard, that would be the central gulley most ascend.) Class 4 rock? how exposed? and would you rope up/rap down for this final piece of the climb?

Lastly, what part of the glacier ascent is so often referred to as 'hell's highway?'

 

thanks in advance,

 

dan

[knotzen]

I climbed it in early August several years back, considerably on the late side of the season.

 

It was mixed snow and rock, class 2-3 most places, about two class 4 moves. We did not rope up ascending, nor rappel down.

 

There was only one spot that was a little uncomfortable--the only time I've ever completely lost contact with the rock--but I just slid down, my body wrapped around a rock outcropping. Just dropped about a foot, and then connected with the rock again.

 

I'd say, since conditions vary, see what it looks like when you get to the base of the pyramid, and discuss with your partner(s) what makes the most sense. If you're proficient scramblers, likely you won't need to rope up, or down. Go up there prepared, and see what it's like.

 

Most likely a scramble up and down will suffice.

 

HTH, and have a great climb.

 

P.S. Watch for the weather. Both times I climb/tried to climb the mountain, we went up in perfect sunny weather, then a storm moved in very quickly early morning, when we were getting ready to go up. I've decided that if I ever go back, I will place wands, no matter the forecast. We had a hell of a time getting back to camp, the second time, when we did summit, and a cloud rolled in, clouds rolling and tumbling toward you, out of the blue, at the speed of a train. A truly amazing and memorable phenomena to observe. I've only seen it on Shuksan, both times I've been up there.

[Alasdair]

Ok several people have asked me what the summit looked like in some PMs, so I will give up the goods. It is mostly snow (<50degree) that is protectable on either side with rock pro. A set of stoppers and a few small cams is more than enough. A short step on rock to gain the ridge to the summit is nesasarry on the last pitch. I recomend gaining this on the left of the snow on class 4 rock. This beta is from last week. I would expect it to get a little harder before it gets easier due to more rock bits metling out. Hope this helps.

[Alasdair]

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[MountainAsylum]

Thanks for the replies guys. It looks like we're gonna give it a run during a non-peak time while we're there (along with a few other destinations). As far as the summit pyramid, I'll def heed your advice and have some rock pro in the case that it appears necessary. Does anyone has any idea about what the access is like for the Shannon Ridge Trail? or current conditions/snowline? I'd greatly appreciate any additonal info.

thanks again,

~dan

[scot'teryx]

Heading up there this Saturday and will report conditions....

[catbirdseat]

Ask Toast. He went up there this weekend.