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[TR] Hood- Leuthold 6/10/2006


neswstar

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Climb: Hood-Leuthold

 

Date of Climb: 6/10/2006

 

Trip Report:

Excellent night for a climb. Down right magical. The moon was so bright no need for head lamps. 6 of us headed out at midnight making great time to illumination saddle. Watched the moon turn deep orange before setting. Dropped onto the Reid - it was still dark. Dropped below the craveasses so we did not have to trust the bridges. Seems we were the only ones on that side - saw no one until the summit. The shute was a bit icy - some mixed moves (ha, ha) but the ice was not good enough to hold a screw. Used pickets - but I think mostly so our fearless leader could dump some weight. Very minimal rock/ice fall. Due I think, to perfect timing. Watched the mounatian shadow shrink as we made our way to the Queens chair. The rest was a slow cruise with nice firm snow and easy steps over the final travere.

 

We watched one of the guide services drop down the old shute - so we decided to avoid the traffic through the gates and go the same way. It actually looked a lot easier than the cluster we witnessed around the shrund once we got down.

 

Great day out!!

 

Gear Notes:

6 pickets, 2 screws, mlu, 2nd tool, sun screen and lots of it, mike's chocolates

 

Approach Notes:

Nice firm snow the whole way - put our crampons on at the Silcox

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