[TR] Nicolum Creek- Dead Soles 6/6/2006

[tlinn]

Climb: Nicolum Creek-Dead Soles

 

Date of Climb: 6/6/2006

 

Trip Report:

This climb has been a work in progress for a while and finally the time was right to send it! Drew came out after work and I met him at the parking area at the base. I had come out the night before and placed the last 4 bolts with my dad because Drew`s drill had died when we had first planned on climbing it at the end of last summer. It was nice to send it! Afterwards we scouted out some new areas and saw some promising climbs to compliment the slab and crack climbing that is there already. We also did a few stellar boulder problems!

 

 

Dead Soles 5.10b, F.A. June 6, 06

 

Approach Notes:

Bud`s Rock Trail

[G-spotter]

yeah, 11 months is the longest it has ever taken me to climb a 10b!

[tlinn]

I am dropping off Hope Climbing Route Descriptions at the Hope Visitor Infocentre tomorrow. I will also try and drop them off at a few other places in town but I will see how that goes and update here.

 

It is simply a one page back and front write-up describing the routes. I didn`t get nearly as much done as I had hoped this summer but there is enough for a good days cragging. There have been 10 routes climbed there so far.

 

I am moving to Toronto on Saturday so that is it for the season.

[tlinn]

I am moving to Toronto on Saturday so that is it for the season.

 

Not true! I may go to the Gunks on the long weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[G-spotter]

I can climb with you in Hope tomorrow

[tlinn]

There is now a route description copy at the Hope Visitor Infocentre. If you need to get a copy just go in and ask.

 

There are also a limited number of hard copies at Cheyenne Sports and The Blue Moose on Wallace street.

 

Cheyenne was also willing to make extra copies for folks to use.

 

Any questions or new route info, send to me at hopeclimbs@hotmail.com

 

cheers,

Ty

[G-spotter]

Make a PDF and post it here!

[jordop]

Climbed at the Nicolum Crag yesterday and found it very fun Hwy 12 first pitch is stellar. Things were a bit wet due to recent rain, and there was a fair amount of mud grovelling to get around the area. In fact, we got caught in a Class 2 dirtalanche descending from the crag. Full burial, kinda scary

 

Anyway, we did the 4 pitch Hwy 12 to To Bee . . link-up. Nice varied climbing, especially the last pitch of To Bee which will be a fantastic pitch once the bolting is sorted out. Very cool chimney to crack to face deal

 

Good times, thanks for putting so much time and effort into these routes Ty! There is only one copy of the topo left at Cheyenne Sports, so anybody seeking beta make sure you get them to make more copies.

[tlinn]

Right on!

 

Thanks for the report! I would like to post a pdf but for some reason the copy of the route description I have won`t open so I will have to wait until xmas to get the file off my parent`s computer and upload it.

 

But it is great to hear you had fun up there and survived the mud avalanche. It is really steep from the base of Hwy 12 to Kemosabe and I have slipped down that before on my ass!

 

[tlinn]

Just one question...what did you think of the grades?

 

pitch 1 - 5.9?

pitch 2 - 5.8?

pitch 3 - 5.8?

pitch 4 - 5.10b/c?

[jordop]

Yeah, sounds good except p2 had a fixed line which we just yanked on in the interest of getting down by dark. 5.8 maybe but really short. We found p4 to be consistently about 10a except for that one stinking move with the little branch growing out of a crack which was snot wet. We both slipped on that thing

[G-spotter]

Ok I had some time to kill (like an hour) while waiting for my data to crunch so I entered this as a new area and added all the routes from Tyler's topo into the rockclimbing.com database. If there is coverage of BC in mountainproject.com feel free to steal the descriptions to do the same.

[jordop]

Hey, you should be adding all important data and info to bivouac

[G-spotter]

[tlinn]

Thanks Dru!!!

 

Very much appreciated.

[G-spotter]

And now, here is a phototopo.

 

 

From left to right:

A - this is a 4 pitch link up. The first two pitches are the climb HIGHWAY 12 (5.9, 5.8). From the top of Hwy 12, scramble up ledges to the start of TWO BEE OR NOT TWO BEE, which is also two pitches long (5.8, 5.10c). Gear to 3", heavy on finger size.

 

B - Kemo Sabe, 5.10c, 1 pitch. 3 bolts plus gear

 

C - Dead Soles, 5.10c. Sporty pitch with 6 bolts.

 

D - First Blood, 5.6. Hand and finger crack.

 

E - Kyle Hudie Route. 10d/11a. Start up First Blood and move right along thin crack to arete. Up arete, bouldery, 4 bolts.

 

F - this is a vegetated scramble/ 5.6 slab pitch with 2 bolts linking the lower tier (Kokanee Slab) to the upper tier (Ecology Ledge).

 

G - Exaggerator 5.10b. Two bolts up a thin slab lead to a pancake-thin laybck flake on a steep wall.

 

H - Land Down Under 5.10a. Thin crack to layback and stemming flake. At top, mantle past bolt on right.

 

I - Oddjob 5.8. Hand crack variation leading right from bottom of LDU and up ramp beyond. Kind of dirty at the moment.

 

J - Life on a Chain 5.11+/12- ? This climb may or may not have been redpointed yet. Very thin climbing past 3 bolts up a narrow flake leads to thin cracks and a slab to the top anchor. Bouldery and tricky clips.

 

Cleaned streaks above routes G-J represent projects that are works in progress at the moment.

[G-spotter]

Access and parking directions are HERE:

http://www.squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?p=9605#9605